Official forced induction chat thread
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Waukesha, WI
Of course, there is no real way to test if air is in the system. Well, i am sure there is but i do not have access or willingness to find out. Therefore i follow the procedure i was given by Honda. As well as the TECHNIQUE billman has given out.
That said, why do you feel it is necessary to think it is better without bleeding it the way Honda intended?
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My thought process revolves around following what the Honda engineers felt was necessary. I simply modify my cars in addition to what they did. I try not to modify against what they did.
Of course, there is no real way to test if air is in the system. Well, i am sure there is but i do not have access or willingness to find out. Therefore i follow the procedure i was given by Honda. As well as the TECHNIQUE billman has given out.
That said, why do you feel it is necessary to think it is better without bleeding it the way Honda intended?
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Of course, there is no real way to test if air is in the system. Well, i am sure there is but i do not have access or willingness to find out. Therefore i follow the procedure i was given by Honda. As well as the TECHNIQUE billman has given out.
That said, why do you feel it is necessary to think it is better without bleeding it the way Honda intended?
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I still bleed my car the way my Honda service manual tells me, with the addition of venting the bleeder valve and pushing out the trapped air manually.
I like to remove things that I really do not need on the car, and its all personal preference (coolant lines to t/b, iacv, oil cooler, air pump, etc.).
Joined: May 2012
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From: SOMD
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Centreville, Va
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,757
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From: Waukesha, WI
Originally Posted by RAIN H8R' timestamp='1396700410' post='23098482
My thought process revolves around following what the Honda engineers felt was necessary. I simply modify my cars in addition to what they did. I try not to modify against what they did.
Of course, there is no real way to test if air is in the system. Well, i am sure there is but i do not have access or willingness to find out. Therefore i follow the procedure i was given by Honda. As well as the TECHNIQUE billman has given out.
That said, why do you feel it is necessary to think it is better without bleeding it the way Honda intended?
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
Of course, there is no real way to test if air is in the system. Well, i am sure there is but i do not have access or willingness to find out. Therefore i follow the procedure i was given by Honda. As well as the TECHNIQUE billman has given out.
That said, why do you feel it is necessary to think it is better without bleeding it the way Honda intended?
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
I still bleed my car the way my Honda service manual tells me, with the addition of venting the bleeder valve and pushing out the trapped air manually.
I like to remove things that I really do not need on the car, and its all personal preference (coolant lines to t/b, iacv, oil cooler, air pump, etc.).
You can delete the IACV and TB coolant hoses, just remove the lines to them and connect the water pump housing directly to the bleeder on the head. This way you delete the hot sensors. This is exactly what I did. I still believe in purging the system of all the air, so I choose to keep the vent hole. Heck, I have the hondata gasket and it blocks the vent hole, so I drilled a hole in it to retain the feature of properly venting the system.
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Waukesha, WI
Yikes, I check every once in a while, maybe one a month.
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on pump gas, is 400whp safe in the f22? I plan on using the bw s200sx turbo and a sidewinder manifold. I would like to up the boost in the area of 500-600whp in the near future. I am hoping 1000cc injectors will get me there. Oh, what about the clutch? shall I upgrade it or just wait?
Lots of question like some of us but this thread is perfect for this
Lots of question like some of us but this thread is perfect for this
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Joined: Jul 2013
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Honestly, That's just a ballparkt number since I don't really know how much turbo setups cost and I won't really be throwing all the money all at once. I don't mind picking up some quality parts over the time span of 4-5 months and then putting them together. That won't hurt as much as spending 5-6k altogether.
And like it said in the post, the car will be driven pretty hard 80% of the time. Track use as in road racing. Not drag racing. Car probably won't ever see a hard launch in its life so I am assuming the diff and axles can handle the 350-400whp on the turns etc? And quick spool just for throttle response. I am mainly aiming more on turbo because of the extra torque? But again I don't know much so someone can may be help me with what would be more of a torquey setup?
And I am afraid of heat soak and overheating etc too.
And like it said in the post, the car will be driven pretty hard 80% of the time. Track use as in road racing. Not drag racing. Car probably won't ever see a hard launch in its life so I am assuming the diff and axles can handle the 350-400whp on the turns etc? And quick spool just for throttle response. I am mainly aiming more on turbo because of the extra torque? But again I don't know much so someone can may be help me with what would be more of a torquey setup?
And I am afraid of heat soak and overheating etc too.
If it were me, I would go for the SOS kit. Good power when needed and not too much torque to throw you out on turns... that's what I would have to say. others correct me if I am wrong