400whp is fine on pump gas. I'm right around 440 and use 93.

I would check your plugs and datalogs (knock in particular) every now and then, but you should be fine. 500-600 would be sketchy on pump gas, and with e85 1000cc injectors would probably be very close to maxing out (for 500whp).

If you are already getting into removing/installing parts anyway, you might as well replace the clutch. My clutch was slipping prior to making my setup, so it wasn't a question of "should I". I also replaced the ap2 flywheel (~22 lbs) with an ap1 flywheel (~14 lbs) while I was in there.

 

Ok so its good to know ill be fine to begin with. I didn't know I would be boosting so soon but I just replaced my plugs with new oem ones, ugh. To gain more power, what if I use Water/Meth instead of e85? WIth the clutch I know I want to upgrade but only when mine starts to go out I guess. What clutch you running?

 

I'm sorry if you took it that way.

Your (oem) way works, I get it.
I just took exception to the statement, "It is very important to loop the water pump housing to the manifold bleed location. Without doing this you cannot get all the Ir out." You haven't tried it, and do not have any information to back the statement up (other than it was engineered that way).

When I asked why it wouldn't bleed the air out, I was honestly only looking for an answer. Maybe you knew something I didn't. You know what....maybe this guy tried it out and only had problems.

I didn't know....that is why I asked.

 

Initially I had installed a competition stage 4 clutch (6 puck-sprung). I used to run a CC stage 5 in my civic, and never had issues with chatter. However, the chatter with the stage 4 in the s2000 was pretty rough. I replaced it with the act heavy duty pressure plate, and used an oem friction disc. It is rated to ~380 ft. lbs. I guess I will see how it holds up over time, but so far (about 10,000 miles) its held up very well. I have not notice any slipping, and the engagement is similar to stock...just with a heavier pedal feel.

 

We did try it. My friend is a bit more laid back and didnt want to drill a hole in his hondata gasket. We had issues bleeding the air out, and the car overheated after a 7 or so minute drive.


Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk

 

OK, 5thGen and RainH8tr, seems like you two have both seen mixed results. I have seen pictures of cars from kings performance with the water line not being looped back to the water housing (the yellow bullet i believe).

I plan on trying to bleed mine with out looping back to the housing and will report back when i get results (month or two as i am currently working on my car).

 

What did you try? Blocking the primary way to bleed air out of the head? Of course you would have issues. I thought the question was about removing hoses and not blocking the flow to the bleeder.


I never said I blocked flow to the bleeder valve. I said I removed the coolant hoses. My bleeder valve works 100% like it would from the factory.



AFK, you can remove your iacv/TB coolant hoses, just don't block access to the bleeder. I guarantee this will work as well as Honda intended.

 

i have a hondata gasket
i have bypassed the TB and IACV ports...but the way i did it was unplug the hose that starts the daisy chain and just use a coupler to hook it to the end where it stops the chain. if i remember right. i will check tonight when i get home.

i ahve always bled by jacking the front up the highest, and letting it run.

 

Im on the same understanding as you. Remove the lines but ofcourse allow the coolant to reach the bleed screw via the manifold.

 

Has anyone ever had a coupler deform from excessive heat? I just put one on the front of my turbo and was wondering if it could stand the higher temps.