S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Official forced induction chat thread

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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 10:29 AM
  #861  
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I just got an email back from Ron Davis. The radiator they recommend is 660 plus shipping.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:08 AM
  #862  
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Which part number is that for 660? Get the part number and call a distributor. Quite cheaper.

Like I said, the part number I listed above is listed for 660 but I got it for 500 shipped from a distributor.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 03:25 PM
  #863  
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They replied to me as well, using part # 1a-1120a-1
He said: That is a dual pass drag racing radiator with AN fittings on it. It would be questionable as a street car radiator, it would work great in a drag racing situation, but if you road race, it wouldn’t be enough depending on how much horsepower you are making.


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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #864  
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Replace the 1120a with 1120p and that's the regular style hose fittings. Told me the same thing yet it seems to be working too well. I'm also using an electric water pump though. This is on a 80mm turbo setup. Makes a little heat.

Dual pass is so much more efficient. I went from a single pass (top to bottom koyo) to the Ron Davis. Whoever can keep those baja trucks cool has something figured out.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 04:52 PM
  #865  
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Dual pass will be my next purchase for sure. Not even worth the time/money on one of those junk stock aluminum copies.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 04:04 AM
  #866  
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Originally Posted by redboost10
Replace the 1120a with 1120p and that's the regular style hose fittings. Told me the same thing yet it seems to be working too well. I'm also using an electric water pump though. This is on a 80mm turbo setup. Makes a little heat.

Dual pass is so much more efficient. I went from a single pass (top to bottom koyo) to the Ron Davis. Whoever can keep those baja trucks cool has something figured out.
I'll try to find a distributor and get a price. If they can beat the 515 or so for the one in the race section. I'll get it.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 04:30 AM
  #867  
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If one was to add a very good oil cooler, leaving the stock radiator, would there be a significant drop in coolant temps?

Sent from my SCH-R950 using Tapatalk
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 04:50 AM
  #868  
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Originally Posted by Redline S2K
Originally Posted by redboost10' timestamp='1402443774' post='23198626
Replace the 1120a with 1120p and that's the regular style hose fittings. Told me the same thing yet it seems to be working too well. I'm also using an electric water pump though. This is on a 80mm turbo setup. Makes a little heat.

Dual pass is so much more efficient. I went from a single pass (top to bottom koyo) to the Ron Davis. Whoever can keep those baja trucks cool has something figured out.
I'll try to find a distributor and get a price. If they can beat the 515 or so for the one in the race section. I'll get it.

That $515 is with the fan and shroud though right? Doesn't seem tooooo bad if these things really do what people say they do. The thought of never having to worry about coolant temps again is music to my ears.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 05:03 AM
  #869  
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The one in the race section is $535, and I am not sure it includes the fan...Dual Pass because they have a fan listed at the bottom of the page for $108.67
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 05:08 AM
  #870  
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Originally Posted by Chance S2K
How recommended would it be for me to install ARP headstuds at ~450WHP? I'm trying to avoid cracking open the engine if possible, and of course am trying to shave down the cost of my turbo build where appropriate, but if it would make my build significantly safer/more reliable it's something I'd do.
Hey chance Evans said I would be ok at 600 on stock bolts. At 450 I wouldn't worry man.
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