Hey Guys I am new to turboing I have a stage one turbo kit from Kings Performance and My precision turbo starts smoking. I really dont want to have to deal with this again once the turbo goes out of warrenty. Does anyone know of an equivalent turbo to a PTE5858BB. The turbo only had sub 2000 miles before it started smoking.

FYI I am running a .030 restrictor to the turbo and my drain line is straight down to the pan and its tapped super high on the pan. This is the same pan that Suzuka_Joe was running I have a -4an feed and -10an return.

 

Got a question for you turbo guys. Anyone know where to buy the mesh covering for your air inlet to the turbo. I know most people run a filter, but I thought I had seen some mesh ones that look similar to those put on ITBs.

Reason I ask is I'm piecing a SOT kit together and haven't really got a good filter solution. So while I'm fabbing up some test pieces I'd like to get a mesh covering just to keep big stuff out. I have a 3" inlet.

 

trackforged has a kit.

 

I'll give them a call. Their website seems to be under construction. I'm sure you know exactly what I'm talking about. I've got the stuff to do Vader's mod, but it still won't fit with the AC relocation kit. I really don't want to lose AC. Gets hot down here in Alabama in the summer.

 

I'll give them a call. Their website seems to be under construction. I'm sure you know exactly what I'm talking about. I've got the stuff to do Vader's mod, but it still won't fit with the AC relocation kit. I really don't want to lose AC. Gets hot down here in Alabama in the summer.
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screw losing AC. shit my setup still has AC. i refuse to give them up. this aint no race car. track forge has a mesh cover. not sure if they have different sizes, but think they do. i used it for a year or so, but it got so hot under my hood the thing disfigured. then i smashed a filter on, and sacrificed spool for a bit. then tore that off and said F it open turbo. would be nice to see if your filter was a restriction.

 

Continuing with the quest for cooler temps...I was considering switching my OE rad for an "upgraded" aluminum (mish, koyo, etc), but research has said, not going to help. I have looked at the dual pass units, all mentioned before in this thread. Now I read that the AEM EMS could be incorrect and needs to be calibrated to indicate correct temps....one post I read it dropped the temps by 10 degrees F. Has anyone done this?

 

There is a calibration table on the forums someplace for the coolant temp table. A dual pass would be a better choice over the Koyo, Mishi etc. My temps are still doing good even in the 90 degree days we've been having here in FL.

Question for all. Can the boost solenoid (mac in my case) be installed backwards? My car was over boosting with it installed. Removed it and ran spring pressure only (10psi spring), no over boost.

 

Just got an email from Jeff Evans. To answer my own question, yes it can be backwards At least it's an easy fix.

 

I did the same thing