I'm really watching this thread. We may have a local BSP getting built. If it gets me excited I may make the jump also.

 

Or you could try to make something of the progress you've made in your STR car and actually try to be competitive by focusing on driving and setup, and not buy more stuff.

 

Very true, I'm in STR for two more seasons until I get out of school. The car does really well locally and did pretty well at the one national event I took it to this year. I'm going to one more national event for the year but I will be in RTR driving a CR. Next year I'll try to do more national stuff. I need more seat time on a national style course with high speed, high risk/high reward style elements. Our local sites are very small compared to some of the videos I see you guys post and when I show up at a national tour it's very different from what I'm used to. Funny how our local lots are so much smaller and very different from nationals style course but we still have a few guys that do really well nationally. I just strive to be as good as them one day. I've got about 8 years to match their age but I feel if my driving isn't amazing after say 5 years of doing this I probably wont ever be a contender for being the best. I've been autoxing for 3 seasons, two at which I've been serious about. I do great locally but we have another local guy that drives a way under-prepped car (koni yellows, alittle stiffer then stock springs, whiteline front bar, wheels/tire) that comes close to beating me and sometimes does beat me. Granted he has been driving autox 10 years and I don’t always take it serious and tend to give alot of rides at that regions races but still. As I stated I'm in STR for two more seasons’ atleast. I'm stacking my money and only doing maintience on the car as needed. The only other modification I may do is buy another recaro seat if one pops up used to go with my seat rail sitting in my closet. Although I don't want to pay $800 for 10 LBS of savings and for some reason people think they can sell a 5-8 year old outdated FIA approved seat for 75% of retail. It's silly and I'm like "Dude your seat isn't even FIA approved anymore, Its worth 50% retail, if that!"

I was wanting to be a baller and keep replacing stuff to get lighter but I'm not sure $4-6K is worth the last 40 LBS or so. I think stacking my money until I graduate and then figuring out what my plan is seems like the smart thing to do. If I went BSP I’d want to go all out and build it to the max, with school that I have to pay for (don’t have student loans/don’t get any grants) it’s not smart to keep investing money to move up a class when the car does well the way it is.

Everything on the STR car is basically brand new beside anything internal in the engine, the trans and the diff. At 163k and daily driving it the engine might be a little worn in two years and I’ll be looking to move on to a newer car (CR) or rebuild the engine. Paying the difference for the CR is about the same price if not more than doing an engine swap and prepping for BSP. I'm staying with a S2k because I have to much money invested in parts. According to my spreadsheet that I keep track of everything I’ve got $14,160 in parts. (retail over 22k) It would be stupid to switch cars and I have a blast driving the S2K. Drove a Vette and didn’t like the patience game of driving at the grip limit of the rear tires the whole time and I like driving a shifter kart but we can’t run them at every venue.

I have a lot of the Parts for BSP and I think a AP1 may be able to be lighter than a CR since it doesn’t have the extra chassis bracing and I can get rid of the a lot of the AP1 stuff using the update back date rule. Basically I honestly feel the CR is the car to have in STR while BSP the AP1 may very-well be the car to have. If anyone wants to see my parts list I can PM it to you. I don’t want to clutter this thread with even more off topic jargon.

Here’s a pic of the car from yesterday- (STR prepped, and excuse the dirtyness!)... and the answer is "Yes, I do scrap over speed bumps, my frame rails have scratchs on them and my pass side fender is bent in at the bottom" All in the name of fun right?




As for not doing much national stuff, school has kept me busy. Plus my Ex not wanting me to go out of town because "she already doesn't see me enough", Key word, Ex.

Back to topic- 2400 LBS, 1.6+ sustained G's and 240+ WHP just sounds amazing! I could only Imagine what that would be like, 12.44 LB/WHP to 10.0 LB/WHP and the added .4+ lateral G ability! Woo!

 

You have to factor in an AP2 swap if you own an AP1. With that much rubber under you, the added torque of the F22 becomes even more important. I'm planning on putting in an F22 from an 04-05 and just keeping my F20 as a spare so if you have an AP1, you're going to have to add about 3.5K or so + labor (if you don't install it yourself) to the cost of running BSP.

 

Which reminds me, if anyone know of someone selling a stock hood in the NY/tristate area, let me know I'm assuming here that just covering up my vents isn't really legal.

 

Unless you're actively road racing in a competition, you don't need the FIA rating on a seat (or harnesses), so the prices stay high for us.

 

1.6 G's sustained? That doesnt sound BSP legal...

 

What kind of sustained G's will a BSP car pull?

 

Running on 315s on similar shocks and springs to Uyeda (Spaf), we get 1.4 ish sustained on high grip surfaces. Just a tick up from our B-stock car. I think higher than 1.5g would need big aero and bias plys.

 

What's the equivalent offset of 8" of backspacing?