So....what parts exactly do I need to swap in an AP1 tranny in my otherwise AP2 drive train (engine, tranny, driveshaft, diff) for BSP? Just get AP1 tranny and the smaller AP1 diff and loctite the crap out of it since the holes are slightly bigger than the bolts?

 

On the AP1 tranny, the bolts that fit the flange of the ap1 tranny will actually slip inside/sink on the bigger diameter hole of the ap2 driveshaft, but will not go completely inside the hole. If you tighten them down and let the head of the bolts center the driveshaft flange with the tranny. I would get a custom sleeve to help fill the gap and make the bolt fit and add a washer assuming that's legal? I went to Fastenol and bought the strongest available bolts for Dave since 3/6 stripped on both ends. I absolutely hate the OEM driveshaft bolts with a passion!

 

I was under the impression that a driveshaft swap made it compatible. i don't remember what the recipe is/was, but Robert Thorne mentioned that it was possible to remove the issue this way - so I assume that if you run an AP1 tranny with an AP1 driveshaft, that you don't have any problems... or something like that... search this forum again.

 

Only difference on the tranny/dirveshaft connection is the size bolt the ap1 takes (8mm) vs the ap2 (10mm), otherwise all the pieces are the same. I found this topic as well touching on the same issue...

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/751...t__p__19757208

 

I thought you weren't allowed to replace the bolts or fab spacers and such.

 

Not sure, why I asked. With Dave's, I simply bought replacements so that were the hardest grade available in hopes of no more stripping. The OEM bolts are supposedly hardened as well, but must be cheap quality. The brackets will act as a washer either way, so using the brackets for the ap1 bolts will help.

 

Both ours and Thorne are setup the same way just use the ap1 bolts on the trans side with loctite

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Just curious, would y'all trust driving to the events with this setup?

I considered going this way, but pussied out and decided to punt on attaching an AP2 diff to the AP1 tranny. I will be replacing my OEM AP1 diff with the Mugen AP1 diff in hopes this gives me a little more protection of it grenading on me, plus I rear wheel lift like mad.

Either way, I'm just going to take the hit by street launching to protect it. If I'm a couple of tenths off of winning, I may roll the dice. However, with the tours, I'm hoping the distance from launch to the starting lights will minimize the disadvantage of the street launch.

 

Not sure if it affects anyone here, but this Tech Bulletin was at the end of the December 2015 Solo Fastrack:

 

Most of us already went through this and have installed the cr Tonneau since that's what has been legal for 2 years now. It will benefit someone starting a build who doesn't want to spend $1200 on a cr tonneau