The lightest 17" ccw is the old type with 16" centers and ti hardware

 

I forgot to follow up on this when you posted it. When you say "yeah, can't be removed then", does that mean if the soft top is removed a CR tonneau needs to be added? I'd like some consensus around this since I am now thinking about not reinstalling a soft top since I'm already taking a weight penalty with my rollbar in place.

On a separate note, as for hardtops. I know we have to run OEM right now but I think I'm going to write a letter to the SEB asking to make hard tops open in SP. I mean if you think about 99% of the time, convertibles will prefer to run without the weight of a hard top. The exception being when it rains. Since hard tops are legally removable items anyway, I feel that we shouldn't be restricted to just OEM tops. I'm self serving here since I have a Mugen top but it's near impossible to buy a new OEM top from Honda so I think replicas or any top people want to run should be free. It doesn't seem to provide any advantage. Does that seem like a valid argument?

The hardtop thing is related to my soft top questions since without a soft top, if it does rain I'd need my hardtop on to keep me dry but my current hardtop isn't legal.
[/quote]

You don't need the tonneau in BSP. That comment was in response to STR.

Good luck getting open hard tops in SP. I don't see it. Maybe if they're the same shape (+-1"), but still unlikely I think. If they were open I'd be running a super lightweight custom Spoon knockoff. They're not even open in SM which I've written about to no avail.
[/quote]

Thanks for the clarification. So I can leave the soft top off but now I might not be able to run in the rain with my Mugen top. Hmmm...this is sounding more and more like my beloved Mugen top might have to bite the dust

 

OEM top looks better anyway, IMO.

You should make your car look like this....

 

LoL, that car looks familiar

Now I just have to convince Aleksey to give me back my old hardtop.

By the way, looks like you can remove the WTB Tonneau Cover now that Jason's clarified that. Just gotta put back the bulkhead and glovebox.

 

Right now my car has a Mugen header which I believe is for the AP1 (earlier design). If I swap in a F22, I'm guessing here that I'm going to be better off selling this header and putting in one that's more optimized for the F22 no?

 

I think tuning takes out the need for one specific header over another from many of the dyno results I have seen. I would focus my money on other things first that are known to make power (port matching) and making the car handle better first.

 

No longer have a vented hood. Was able to source an OEM hood to replace mine so externally my car is now fully BSP compliant. Since I'm planning on swapping in a F22 and AP2 tranny, figured I might as well put in a fresh clutch and flywheel. I could just resurface my OEM AP1 flywheel or get an 8lb or 11lb flywheel but I'm leaning towards 11lbs as a compromise since I do still have to drive my car to and from events and want to retain some streetability.

I'm wondering if there are any benefits to going all the way down to an 8lb flywheel and dealing with reported issues around this such as more likelihood of clutch buzz and other non-smooth clutch operation. I had an 8lb fly with 6-puck clutch in my previous car (RSX Type-S) and I eventually got used to it but for the S I'm sticking with the OEM clutch mated with the ACT HD pressure plate, I just don't haven't decided yet what to do with the flywheel. Thoughts?

 

The super light flywheel hurts a little at the start of pro's, but other than that is a plus IMO. The flywheel in the Z is 6lbs.

 

Maybe a stupid question but.... Does a smaller flywheel hurt midrange TQ?

 

may be a stupid question. but i was thinking of running 15 x 10.5's in the front, is there a reason other then maybe brake clearance why this wouldnt work?