Prepping for BSP
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,219
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From: NYC
Jason, I hope you don't mind but I'm copying your old post over from sccaforums here (http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/for...e/posts#275062) to make it easier to reference later.
spaf wrote:
I run 18x11's front and rear with 285s on the front and 295's on the rear. The 295s are actually a touch narrower but taller, I need the gearing.
My 18x11's have basically a 8.5" backspacing. Same front and rear to keep things simple and interchangeable. In the rear I run ~5mm spacer. In the front I generally run ~10mm of spacer. If you care about hub-centricity get all the wheels with the rear hub bore and have spacers made for the front. The front bore is 70.1mm and the rear is 64.1. Or you can get all the wheels to the front bore and lose rear hub-centricity. Personally, I don't think it makes much difference either way...
For SM2 I'd definitely consider the 315/30/18 in the rear. A 315/30 with a 9300 redline and AP1 tranny puts you at about 73mph in 2nd (~72mph for the 295) which is probably close to right for most typical National style courses. Andy/Erik/JRho would have a better idea than me. You will need to flare ~1" to get the 315 to fit, 285/295s will fit with just rolling and some minor fender-tab/bumper modification depending on the amount of toe you run.
In the front, it just comes down to what compromises you are willing to make. You can not get a 285 on an 18x11 to fit (at low ride heights) and maintain near-full lock without slightly flaring the fenders. By slightly I mean just pushing out the lip ~1/4" so it's no longer vertical. You can do this w/o needing to re-paint and most won't even be able to tell difference. Spring dia. will depend on ride height, camber and caster, although I'd always recommend 2.25" to give you max possible, even if you don't need it.
For BSP I'd generally recommend 18x10.5 F/R as I don't think the extra pain involved with 11s is worth it for most. But for you I think the 315s will be better in the rear, in which case you might as well go for 11s if you're willing to flare.
All of the above is in regard to Hoosier A6s. The 710s are slightly shorter and have less section width. Kumho doesn't have a 295 or 315/30/18, although if/when the 305/30/18 shows up it could make things interesting.
Those spring rates seem really low to me. If it were me I'd probably start somewhere around 1000/750 F/R which I think is still somewhat workable on the street.
I have a set of brand new, black anodized 18x11 C10s I'd consider selling since I'm not going to run my car this year. Lemme know if you're interested.
Here's a few pics of my car...
I run 18x11's front and rear with 285s on the front and 295's on the rear. The 295s are actually a touch narrower but taller, I need the gearing.
My 18x11's have basically a 8.5" backspacing. Same front and rear to keep things simple and interchangeable. In the rear I run ~5mm spacer. In the front I generally run ~10mm of spacer. If you care about hub-centricity get all the wheels with the rear hub bore and have spacers made for the front. The front bore is 70.1mm and the rear is 64.1. Or you can get all the wheels to the front bore and lose rear hub-centricity. Personally, I don't think it makes much difference either way...
For SM2 I'd definitely consider the 315/30/18 in the rear. A 315/30 with a 9300 redline and AP1 tranny puts you at about 73mph in 2nd (~72mph for the 295) which is probably close to right for most typical National style courses. Andy/Erik/JRho would have a better idea than me. You will need to flare ~1" to get the 315 to fit, 285/295s will fit with just rolling and some minor fender-tab/bumper modification depending on the amount of toe you run.
In the front, it just comes down to what compromises you are willing to make. You can not get a 285 on an 18x11 to fit (at low ride heights) and maintain near-full lock without slightly flaring the fenders. By slightly I mean just pushing out the lip ~1/4" so it's no longer vertical. You can do this w/o needing to re-paint and most won't even be able to tell difference. Spring dia. will depend on ride height, camber and caster, although I'd always recommend 2.25" to give you max possible, even if you don't need it.
For BSP I'd generally recommend 18x10.5 F/R as I don't think the extra pain involved with 11s is worth it for most. But for you I think the 315s will be better in the rear, in which case you might as well go for 11s if you're willing to flare.
All of the above is in regard to Hoosier A6s. The 710s are slightly shorter and have less section width. Kumho doesn't have a 295 or 315/30/18, although if/when the 305/30/18 shows up it could make things interesting.
Those spring rates seem really low to me. If it were me I'd probably start somewhere around 1000/750 F/R which I think is still somewhat workable on the street.
I have a set of brand new, black anodized 18x11 C10s I'd consider selling since I'm not going to run my car this year. Lemme know if you're interested.
Here's a few pics of my car...
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 400
Likes: 2
From: weston
At those prices you might as well fork over the ccw for 700/wheel! Although we may have just found 18"s and will likely make a switch from 17"s. I don't think the difference is that great. I think optimal for someone running Hoosiers is 17x10.5 with the 295 would be a good combo. We ran the 275 because BFg didn't have a 295. Will likely try 18x11 with BFg 275/35/18 or 285/30/18. The 275 would give better gearing and from discussions with BFg would be better off. Their 285 is so wide that it won't fit on the cars that were previously running 285 Hoosiers in many cases
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,219
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From: NYC
That's true but assuming you were also going to get it painted, then the prices are on par. More importantly, there's a slim chance that if it's a manufactured wheel, you can get lucky and find one used. I'm not sure about BFGs but I also think that Hoosiers are less sensitive to "pinching" on slightly narrower wheels.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: The Pub
Jason, I hope you don't mind but I'm copying your old post over from sccaforums here (http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/for...e/posts#275062) to make it easier to reference later.
Middle pic is with 285 710's on 11's. All other are 285/295 A6's on 11's.
Former Moderator
Joined: Aug 2004
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I bought those 18x11 wheels from Jason in 09. Bought John Ward's 18x11s in 2011. Had an additional set made from CCW. Might be willing to part with a set or even "rent" them out in case I ever do bring the car out again.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,219
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From: NYC
Let me know if you decide to part any of these wheels next year (around January time). It'd be nice to not have to spend top dollar on a brand new set of wheels that are staying on my tire trailer 90% of the time.