[QUOTE=chetly,May 19 2010, 08:08 PM]Add one more to the Laguna STR group.

 

Stock 06 bar... bought a Saner bar from a member here. Should be here Friday.

 

Bad idea. The air fuel, vtec, timing etc is nowhere close to ideal.

 

Do you feel the same way about the Mugen N1 ECU?

 

I don't think that ecu is str legal.

 

Why is that?

 

I don't know that ECU, but to be STR legal it has to be mounted inside the stock ECU casing, use the stock ECU connector, and retain all OBD functions.

 

At a local school I got to drive an AP1 with Tein Flex coilovers, 235/245 18" (I think) Yok tires and some kind of an intake. Wow, was that ever fun! It was a very predictable car to play with. I set FTD (no R-comp cars there) without much drama; it just got down to business and worked. It got me seriously considering building a 'lite' STR car with only some of the mods as I'm only competing locally for a while.

This has really got me thinking... Questions in bold:
- 255s all around just must be more fun than 225s. Do you have to permanently modify any fender sheet metal to fit these without resorting to non-streetable spring rates? After they wear out the fender liners my front 225/50R16 Dunlops on stock wheels contact the inner metal frame rail pretty hard right now.
- Lowering VTEC sounds really fun. Is this possible to do on a 2001 without access to an S2000 expert for dyno tuning? The only decent dyno in town is run by a drag-race-only guy.
- My Penske 8300s are now running the same valving that was on Wynveen's car when it won Nats in B-Stock. Would they need to be revalved? I hope not as I just got them back.

 

You can get a good streetable setup. Mine is a DD with 750F/600R springs. I think you need good separation in rates (frequency) to avoid unwanted proposing and other bump effects. With 255s there is no fender rolling or pulling as long as you get in the 2+ degrees of camber up front. The fender liner is worn through near the edge affecting one clip/tab and on the inside due to some heavy jack down (too much rebound on bumpy surface) early on. See photos below.

I'll let others chime in on the tuning.

As for the Penske 8300s I can say that you will be fine on the rebound side because you don't need too much more (1/2 to 1 turn from full soft) than full soft which is the same regardless of stack valving. Piston wise you can do fine with digressive (compression)/linear (rebound) or digressive/digressive. The question will be how much low speed compression you have. If you can post a dyno plot you can get a read on that. About 100 to 125 lbs at 1 in/sec assuming the spring rates above.

Liner edge - worn through more now


Liner in the middle

 

[QUOTE=captain_pants,May 23 2010, 11:12 PM]This has really got me thinking...