Matt, I found that a slight amount of toe in upfront helps out a lot with mid corner grip. I run a total of .06 of toe in upfront. I didn't lose much turn-in, but it made a vast improvement with mid-corner grip.

 

That's good news because I went from 1/8" out to 0 toe in the front yesterday.

 

Yikes - no wonder you had mid-corner push! Like an S2000 needs more help with turn-in...toe out in the front of these cars is pointless if you ask me.

 

That's what I deduced. Hey, it may take a while for me to catch on. I don't take anything anyone has to say for truth. I'm stubborn that way.

 

Not yet. My rear shock bodies are as long as stock and with the stupid Penske shaft adapter, I really have a small amount of stroke in the rear before I get metal to metal contact, so the bumpstop stays until that gets fixed. Now, if Leach would just hurry up and ship me his extra shock hats I’ll look into welding an extension and getting some stroke length before I get the shocks built with a shorter body/shaft.

 

I like this

I understand why you did it your way (cause I'm just like that) - but you made me think I'm crazy for a long long time and now you are pretty much arriving at what I told you 4 months ago

I can't wait for this weekend!

 

Rear toe out doesnt make sense to me, neither does front toe in, sounds completely backwards. In a corner if you have front toe in, the inside tire is fighting against you, same with rear toe out. Rear toe out would make the inside tire fight against turning and the rear would want to come out all the time. It should be Front toe out and Rear toe in, but I really think toe out in the front is only beneficial on front wheel drive cars or non wishbone suspension types. I run .2* rear toe in and 0* up front. Max front camber -2.2* and -3* in the rear. My front tires wore on the inside and my rears wore evenly. I am wondering if -2.2* front is too much, but I did more street driving than anything last year

 

Thanks for the conversation on alignment. I've been thinking that -3 deg camber in the rear may be too much. I think I'll try -2 deg rear camber for this weekend. Rear bar will also be removed. I could really use a test and tune session with a large skid pad.

This past weekend softening the FSB (Comptech) from 290% (end hole) to 200% (center hole) stock stiffness helped balance the car after experiencing some push in sweeper in the event prior.

 

I'm in the same state with my Penskes in the rear. I cut the first ring off the bump stop and feel somewhat at risk of bottoming. I would not mind lowering the car another 1/4 to 1/2 inch. So, shorter shock bodies will be bought for the rear at some point. I hope shorter shafts are not required as well. $$$

What is your current top hat and what are you going to do to gain more travel?

Below describes what I have.

 

FYI: While speaking with Guy Ankeny about swaybars he mentioned he's making offset bushings for the upper A-arms. They add 1.3 degrees of negative camber over stock. Sounds pretty cool for the STR crew.