Measure your camber with your tools. Mark the subframe's current location, adjust all the way in one direction and measure the distance from the mark, then due the same in the other direction. Split the difference by the percentage that you would like to regain that camber. This is assuming that the "center" lies between the current location and the "further" end and that the car is more or less symmetric. If you have to move the subframe in the direction of the close end, then I don't know how to determine where it should be. You could always max it out, and check your camber change and make whatever changes you need to get your toe back to where you want it.

 

That is an OK way to do it. I'd cut a step off and split the difference to the geometric center (slide all the way back and forth) and measure. Then if it is not right there at the center, the subframe is bent (unlikely) of the arm is bent (very likely) and that has to be fixed first.

 

Or just go to a good shop like GTE in Atlanta and get it up on the alignment rack and work with the guy to get it right.

 

here's a shot of my codriver (my car) from yesterday



first test of recently installed motons with my initial setup: 1.375" gendron at full stiff, no rear bar. ride height is ~12.75" hub to fender in front.. ~1/8" higher in rear. 1000 lb/in front and rear. rs3's were at 35psi all around.

conditions kept changing but i did get a couple of somewhat dry runs. amazing in transitions and overall feeling was very very good.. motons are f'in awesome!

experienced a small amount of steady state push and i'm told my inside rear is lifting about 1" off the ground in the dry.

so my plan is to reduce rear camber from 2.2 to maybe 1.9 for added steady state rotation, lower car some more all around to lower COG, and dial down the rear rebound. i also would like to soften the front bar a bit to give the front end some more bite but not sure if that will exacerbate the inside rear wheel lift..

am i on the right track? luckily, the inside rear wasn't in the air when i was getting back on the throttle.. i had no idea until a friend told me.

dan

 

Seems odd that you have that much roll and inside lift with that stiff of a setup. I have softer springs and bar and the car doesn't roll nearly as much as that. Try slowing down your steering inputs - I'm betting your are getting driver induced roll.

 

i was surprised too. doesn't make sense with that much combined front rate.

the newly repaved meadowlands has an incredible amount of grip. maybe that's a big part of it. trackmaster shows 1.25-1.5 lateral g's but i don't trust that data.

i don't see much steering angle in the pic and that's in the wet

i'll try slowing down inputs but i'm not sure that's the issue.. i think there's just so much grip (when it's dry). if i really threw it around i think i'd lose the front? or is that just not possible in an s2k? ha

 

What element is before this corner? Being that far from the cone, I would assume that there is a pretty big braking zone that you carried too far into the turn. That would explain a lot of what were looking at.

 

ah, good point.. i can't tell where on course he is from that pic but he is probably on the binders (on top of the crappy line). it wasn't just that instance where the inside rear was light/lifting.

maybe it's one of those things i don't worry about until i get wheelspin when trying to put power down? next time i'm going to stick a video camera on the side of the car and watch that rear wheel (and listen to the throttle)

 

That sounds like a good idea.

And yeah - I'd ignore the pictures until you actually get wheelspin

 

It doesn't look like a TON of body roll to me... just no droop at all. Look at the bottom of the front lip. It's pretty flat along the ground.

Now look at the vertical poles in the background. They are all out of vertical. I think the shot is just out of level making the roll appear worse than it is. My $.02

Edit: example of the shot leveled: