S2000 STR prep resource
Originally Posted by robinson,Dec 8 2010, 10:04 PM
I'm surprised to see that much front roll resistance.
I'm running 560f & 672r and was thinking of trying 672f & 800r next
Originally Posted by nmrado,Dec 8 2010, 04:10 PM
Here's another setup point that feels decent to me:
Front:
900 lb/in
-3.1* camber
J's S2 camber joints
max caster
Modified Saner FSB on 4th adjustment hole
zero toe
12-7/8" wheel center-to-fender distance
Rear:
800 lb/in
-3.5* camber
3/16" total toe in
'00 rear sway bar
12-3/4" wheel center-to-fender distance
This was on a set of R-S3s. It has a little low-speed push but is quite stable in faster turns.
EDIT: with 3+ degrees of negative camber, I haven't had to touch my fender lips, front or rear. I might be pushing it, but the grip is definitely there.
Front:
900 lb/in
-3.1* camber
J's S2 camber joints
max caster
Modified Saner FSB on 4th adjustment hole
zero toe
12-7/8" wheel center-to-fender distance
Rear:
800 lb/in
-3.5* camber
3/16" total toe in
'00 rear sway bar
12-3/4" wheel center-to-fender distance
This was on a set of R-S3s. It has a little low-speed push but is quite stable in faster turns.
EDIT: with 3+ degrees of negative camber, I haven't had to touch my fender lips, front or rear. I might be pushing it, but the grip is definitely there.
650lbs front
saner bar 2nd hole
0 toe
-3.5 camber
650lbs rear, soon to be 750lbs
no rear bar
3/16 toe
-2.5 camber
My car with rs3's has some push hoping the 750's will help that some.
I've paxed in the top 10 against some very strong San Francisco SCCA members the last couples events.
Originally Posted by robinson,Dec 8 2010, 11:04 PM
I'm surprised to see that much front roll resistance.
Chetly, the sway bars have a large impact on the roll resistance. If you're running no rear bar, I'd expect your car to push like crazy. My front to rear roll stiffness is 59% to 41%, if I did the math correctly.
As Rob hinted, my shocks are quite a bit softer than the traditional STR setup. Take a look at the Bilstein thread for dyno plots. It worked well on a bumpy lot... I'm likely to increase my rebound a bit.
What are the stock ride heights from wheel center to fender lip? I measured mine before putting coilovers on, but I think my fronts were lower on my BS revalved Koni Yellows than on OEM shocks.
I currently have 1/4" rake using wheel center to fender lip distance as a reference, with the rears being higher. But I have no idea how this compares to stock.
I currently have 1/4" rake using wheel center to fender lip distance as a reference, with the rears being higher. But I have no idea how this compares to stock.
Originally Posted by PedalFaster,Dec 9 2010, 01:33 AM
I think you're overestimating the importance of lightweight wheels.

Just in case, I rolled the dice and ordered a set of those wheels from a small shop in CA that had on their web-site that the availability is that it typically ships the next business day.... then again, they have that everything I clicked on. LOL I hope I can land these wheels. (I kinda miss my cool little JDM BBS wheels.)
-Dave
Originally Posted by PossumK,Dec 8 2010, 10:44 PM
What are the stock ride heights from wheel center to fender lip? I measured mine before putting coilovers on, but I think my fronts were lower on my BS revalved Koni Yellows than on OEM shocks.
I currently have 1/4" rake using wheel center to fender lip distance as a reference, with the rears being higher. But I have no idea how this compares to stock.
I currently have 1/4" rake using wheel center to fender lip distance as a reference, with the rears being higher. But I have no idea how this compares to stock.
13.875" Front
14.125" Rear
Those are probably plus or minus 1/8" or so, I didn't have time to get a really good measurement on the wheel center. I wanted to keep the tape vertical plus I've still got center caps so I had to make a couple measurements and calculate the center. Maybe I'll check it over tonight, but it should be close.
FYI fender liner lip to ground with OEM wheels/tires was 25.875" front and 26.125" rear. That measurement should be good.
So your rake is around the same as stock.
Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by PedalFaster,Dec 9 2010, 12:33 AM
I think you're overestimating the importance of lightweight wheels.
Think about running a 1/4 mile with out a pass. and then run it again alone. The car feels alot faster alone. I race a buddy with his girlfriend in the car and beat him by 3-4 cars. He turned around, took her out of the car and ran them again. He beat me by alittle over a car. On a honda with our low tq numbers every pound counts and on the national level where a .1 of a second can make the difference between getting a trophy and not getting a trophy lighter wheels will make that difference.
-just my outlook on things. Plus I'm a jdm whore if you didn't already know. Everything on my car is top notch.

ps- and no his girl friend doesn't weight 200lbs shes tiny like mine. shes around the 100-110 mark. And at 12.6 lbs weight savings over the 949's. That could be equal to 126lbs which would be like taking her out of the car.
No one's disputing that a lighter car will be faster. However, lots of people have tried to quantify the benefits of lightweight wheels in an autocross context and been surprised at how difficult it was. Going by memory -- recent tests by Jason Isley in Sportscar and the Tire Rack guys in Grassroots Motorsports found vanishingly small benefits to having lightweight wheels (assuming your original wheels weren't boat anchors), differences which were below the noise threshold of mortal drivers like most of us.
Will lighter wheels help? Sure. But as to whether you're "screwed" because you can't get your hands on a specific ultra-light wheel -- considering the STR national championship was won in a lighter, less powerful car on heavier wheels than the ones you're looking for, my assessment is that you're not screwed.
Will lighter wheels help? Sure. But as to whether you're "screwed" because you can't get your hands on a specific ultra-light wheel -- considering the STR national championship was won in a lighter, less powerful car on heavier wheels than the ones you're looking for, my assessment is that you're not screwed.




