Thanks guys for giving some input. I'm going to get one - with having a CR, working to get it light / convert it to a delete (AC is out!), and a strong tune I suspect I'll be light enough and powerful enough that the diff will help. I'll keep y'all posted!

 

FWIW, I have zero desire to add an aftermarket diff (OS Giken or not) to my car. I honestly believe if you get the suspension buttoned up on one of these cars the stock diff is adequate.

Granted buttoned up = REALLY low, really stiff front, and loads of low speed compression in the shocks (especially the rear). The AP2s certainly have lots more power, but even motoring out of tight turns in first gear I have zero issue with keeping the back end in check.

 

So let's talk about sway bar and spring rates.

I went with 800 F / 700 R springs to start, and am using the gendron front bar. I'd like to minimize sway bar rates, so I'm going to try to do no rear sway bar to start and see if I can make that work.

So I'm thinking I'll start with:
800 lb/in front springs
700 lb/in rear springs
0.25" wall Gendron bar with ball bearing mounts, set to 3/6 where 6 is the stiffest setting
No rear bar

What do you think? Should I start stiffer on the Gendron? Do you think I should keep the rear bar? Any thoughts?

 

I'm swapping out my front springs (700) for 600 right now. I also have 800 rear and no rear bar, saner sway on the second from soft hole. For me, 800/700 was much to bouncy for the roads in Nebraska. Swapping the rates around has made a big difference in comfort and I think the next springs (600) will make it even better. I think I might end up on the 3rd hole from soft, but I have not had an event yet, and this Sunday's event was canceled so I'll have to wait another month to find out how it handles. Driving around on the street with my 245 Star Specs was fine and I didn't think it was too loose.

 

Thanks for the input.

So here's a question - if I leave one endlink disconnected on the rear sway bar, will there be any problems with the bar banging into the control arm or anything? I'd like to be able to switch back and forth quickly to test it out. I've done that with other cars but this one the bar seems closer, so I just want to confirm.

 

I did this with my rear sway bar without issue. I also just changed my front springs to 600 lb/in, FYI.

 

Same here. I drove mine around like that for awhile before I just pulled the bar out.
No worries at all.

 

I have disconnected with out issue, but I would fully remove one end link so there is no chance of it getting caught any where.

 

Dan (Ghostshadow) and I were able to get my car all sorted out this weekend during the test 'n tune with the NNJR SCCA. I lost count, but I'm guessing we got 30 runs between the both of us and the car feels just great...and we're still running last year's star specs. We won't be switching over to the fresh R-S3s until just a few weeks before the prosolo. Here's a video I compiled of our best runs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgLkIUEgUn0

 

Man, I'm jealous. I was registered for the test n tune but we finished installing the suspension just like a half hour too late on saturday and couldn't find anyone that could align it...and it needed alignment really bad.