S2000 STR prep resource
I agree, my bias is around a 69% front and I like it a lot. I was actually just in the other thread and people were telling me I needed a lot more front stiffness. Maybe there's a calculation difference here?
My bar on full stiff transtions perfect but half to watch it and not ask for to much from the front tires. For example you couldn't turn the steering wheel 90 degrees and exspect it not to push, It didn't like any steering inputs over 65-70 degrees. On the other hand a car with a softer bar you can turn the steering wheel 90 degrees and it won't push at all but the inputs feel delayed. Thats why on day one I couldn't slalom for shit. I was making my normal 60 degrees steering input and exspecting the car to "turn" but it wasn't. So I pinched every cone in the slaloms and my timing on getting in and out on boxes was way off. Des was able to drive it because he's used to a softer bar and from watching his video he was making 80-90 degree inputs where I was trying to get the car to do the same thing with my 60 degree inputs.
Now I know why I thought your car was pushy to me. Running that big of a bar really limits the useable steering degrees. I was asking to much of the front tires. It's all about what you get used to I guess. I myself need a pretty stiff bar although I don't want to add any more to my front roll stiffness.
Now I know why I thought your car was pushy to me. Running that big of a bar really limits the useable steering degrees. I was asking to much of the front tires. It's all about what you get used to I guess. I myself need a pretty stiff bar although I don't want to add any more to my front roll stiffness.
matt,
your front roll bias is alittle higher then mine but not by much. I'm at 69.5 and your at 70.77. your natural frequency rate is 2.563 front and 2.375 rear. Thats a 8% difference. I'm at 2.719 front and 2.295 rear, A 18% difference. I wanted to be at a 15% difference because according to the chassis set up book it said to be at a 15% natural fequency rate difference with the end of the drive wheels on the lower end. I'll prolly end up going 800f/650r or 850f/700r if I can find a 850 spring. 900f/750r I think is just too stiff. Plus I'd like to have my NF rate in the 2.563-2.642 range, not in the 2.719 range like I am now. Although I'm worried about eatting fenders with softer springs.
your front roll bias is alittle higher then mine but not by much. I'm at 69.5 and your at 70.77. your natural frequency rate is 2.563 front and 2.375 rear. Thats a 8% difference. I'm at 2.719 front and 2.295 rear, A 18% difference. I wanted to be at a 15% difference because according to the chassis set up book it said to be at a 15% natural fequency rate difference with the end of the drive wheels on the lower end. I'll prolly end up going 800f/650r or 850f/700r if I can find a 850 spring. 900f/750r I think is just too stiff. Plus I'd like to have my NF rate in the 2.563-2.642 range, not in the 2.719 range like I am now. Although I'm worried about eatting fenders with softer springs.
You mean the springs I have on the front of my car?
You can always try a different diameter or length. I made sure to run the same lengths, front and rear, so I could swap springs freely. I'm pretty sure I'm running 7B0850.
Originally Posted by josh7owens' timestamp='1308264758' post='20690750
your front roll bias is alittle higher then mine but not by much. I'm at 69.5 and your at 70.77.
I'm liking my 56:44 distribution. It's a handful at lapping days...
While I agree you should continue testing, your reason is a little weird. You take all those calculations to get you a starting point then you go out and test- let the clock tell you what is better, not a book or a spreadsheet. Comparing numbers is wonderful, but he might be smoother or more abrupt, is lower or higher, has more compression or less, more rebound or less, different alignment, tests on a different surface or course style, et al. All the pieces work into a system that can balance itself out through the sum of its parts (then the driver can throw all the theory out the window).
Of course, I am saying this as a mid-packer, so what do I know?

-Dave
Biggest improvement that can be made to the car is the driver. Focus on driver as your #1 goal. Leave the maths at home.
And I would die without a calculator...
imstimpy- your right you can't compare set up over the internet. I drove matts car and matt drove my car, we bothe agreed our cars felt simular in balance regardless of the rest of the set up. Therefore I did the math and sure enough our cars are within 1%age on front roll bias. thats all.
spread sheets are nice to get a base line and then tune to your driving style. Thats all. I tried what it said was ideal and it didn't work as well as my previous set-up. Which means one more click of bar is prolly going to happen soon.
spread sheets are nice to get a base line and then tune to your driving style. Thats all. I tried what it said was ideal and it didn't work as well as my previous set-up. Which means one more click of bar is prolly going to happen soon.




