S2000 STR prep resource
As for the clutch I wouldn't risk glazing it due to not having a proper break-in. The common break-in is 400-500 city driving miles.
I DD with a etx14 it's a great battery and I have had it on the car for about a year. I DD the car during the winter and had no issues at all. Search "battery josh7owens" in the mod forum. It will leak you to links on a website called tristatebatterys.com, that's the cheapest place to buy it. If I was to do it over again some company released a lipo battery that has more cca then the oem battery and only weights 4.5 lbs. The battery is able to charge off the stock set-up and the good thing about lipo is it has the same power at 25% battery as it does at 100%, with a normal battery anything under 75% the power falls off. The only down fall is it's $315.00 but if your chasing down that sub 2600lbs then it's nothing but money
Pm me if you want the link. In posting from my phone and the link is on my favs.
Edit- https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/873...ery-for-s2000/
On the valve adjustment I do mine to the middle spec. .011 on exhaust and .010 on intake if I had to recall off the top of my head. Just check the service manual, if you don't have one let me know and I'll check mine for you. You don't want to set it on the tight end because you risk the valves not fully seating and burning a valve. The loose end is bad because it doesn't "fully" open the valve and it wouldn't stay open for as long. The middle setting is your best bet.
Pads- your on your own, I haven't tried anything but oem, I'd like more bite but I haven't tried any of them yet.
I DD with a etx14 it's a great battery and I have had it on the car for about a year. I DD the car during the winter and had no issues at all. Search "battery josh7owens" in the mod forum. It will leak you to links on a website called tristatebatterys.com, that's the cheapest place to buy it. If I was to do it over again some company released a lipo battery that has more cca then the oem battery and only weights 4.5 lbs. The battery is able to charge off the stock set-up and the good thing about lipo is it has the same power at 25% battery as it does at 100%, with a normal battery anything under 75% the power falls off. The only down fall is it's $315.00 but if your chasing down that sub 2600lbs then it's nothing but money

Pm me if you want the link. In posting from my phone and the link is on my favs.
Edit- https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/873...ery-for-s2000/
On the valve adjustment I do mine to the middle spec. .011 on exhaust and .010 on intake if I had to recall off the top of my head. Just check the service manual, if you don't have one let me know and I'll check mine for you. You don't want to set it on the tight end because you risk the valves not fully seating and burning a valve. The loose end is bad because it doesn't "fully" open the valve and it wouldn't stay open for as long. The middle setting is your best bet.
Pads- your on your own, I haven't tried anything but oem, I'd like more bite but I haven't tried any of them yet.
I'm in the works of putting a steering rack in my ap1. I've put about 40k miles on the car with bigger str wheels/tires and about 5-10k with 225/60/16 snow tires on. From my understanding the bigger wheels and tires will wear out the eps motor and the motor will start to work/not work randomly until it stops working all together. The wierd thing is it doesn't "realize" it's not working and throw a eps light. I should have my steering rack replacement this week and hopefully install it this weekend. Driving a car with/without powersteering switching back and forth randomly is kind of wierd and hard.
Just figured I'd share
Just figured I'd share
I say go for it Annie. Launch control and all.
Actually, mine got a new one as well. I haven't driven it yet, but Don's going to put a few hundred commuting miles on it before bringing it to Packwood on Sunday. He laughed when I told him it needed a break-in period, but since I'm the guy who writes the checks ...
Josh, glad you tackled the steering issue. When you said it 'fixed itself' I was a little worried ...
Actually, mine got a new one as well. I haven't driven it yet, but Don's going to put a few hundred commuting miles on it before bringing it to Packwood on Sunday. He laughed when I told him it needed a break-in period, but since I'm the guy who writes the checks ...
Josh, glad you tackled the steering issue. When you said it 'fixed itself' I was a little worried ...
Yea Des it came back on and worked for a few days after the race and now it's not working at all. Although I've never heard that popping noise that we heard since the race day. The crazy thing is it never threw a EPS light. Crazy! From the other people I've talked to it seems they didn't have a light thrown either. Hopefully I didn't spend $230 for a used rack and it's still messed up
Anyone else see the proposed ECU rule in the July Fastrack?
Current 2011 rule 14.10.F:
Proposed wording:
It sounds like you could intercept and modify signals between the ECU and the powertrain. i.e. you can change fueling and ignition on the earlier cars. Is something like the Greddy piggyback legal if this goes through?
Current 2011 rule 14.10.F:
2. Electronic components may be installed in-line between an engine’s
sensors and ECU. These components may alter the signal
coming from the sensor in order to affect the ECU’s operation of
engine management system. Example: fuel controllers that modify
the signal coming from an airflow sensor.
sensors and ECU. These components may alter the signal
coming from the sensor in order to affect the ECU’s operation of
engine management system. Example: fuel controllers that modify
the signal coming from an airflow sensor.
2. Supplementary (“Piggyback”) ECU may be used subject to the following restrictions:
a) Connects between the standard ECU and its wiring harness only.
b) Must be plug-compatible with the standard ECU (no splices).
a) Connects between the standard ECU and its wiring harness only.
b) Must be plug-compatible with the standard ECU (no splices).
Anyone else see the proposed ECU rule in the July Fastrack?
Current 2011 rule 14.10.F:
Proposed wording:
It sounds like you could intercept and modify signals between the ECU and the powertrain. i.e. you can change fueling and ignition on the earlier cars. Is something like the Greddy piggyback legal if this goes through?
Current 2011 rule 14.10.F:
2. Electronic components may be installed in-line between an engine’s
sensors and ECU. These components may alter the signal
coming from the sensor in order to affect the ECU’s operation of
engine management system. Example: fuel controllers that modify
the signal coming from an airflow sensor.
sensors and ECU. These components may alter the signal
coming from the sensor in order to affect the ECU’s operation of
engine management system. Example: fuel controllers that modify
the signal coming from an airflow sensor.
2. Supplementary (“Piggyback”) ECU may be used subject to the following restrictions:
a) Connects between the standard ECU and its wiring harness only.
b) Must be plug-compatible with the standard ECU (no splices).
a) Connects between the standard ECU and its wiring harness only.
b) Must be plug-compatible with the standard ECU (no splices).
I have an emanate ultimate and harness possibly getting installed and tuned in the next few weeks. Decided that I should take care of it now when I have time before law school starts. That way it will be on for the spring events next season.
Oh I know it, but it is easy to deal with if it doesn't pass and I got a very good deal. plus I run with a bunch of other clubs other then SCCA who wouldn't care so I may just remove it when necessary. That being said I have strong feelings that it will pass. It has been suggested multiple times in a few fast tracks, and no one seems to dislike the rule as long as full stand-alones are still not allowed.



