you're not thinking creatively enough

with an AFPR you could increase the pressure at the rail a little bit to increase injector flow. Under low/part throttle the computer can compensate for the extra injector with the fuel trims and run normal. At WOT you'll be rich, so you can use your VAFC or whatever you have to lean back out to your desired A/F ratio. The benefit is that with the extra increased correction factor you've just gained yourself another degree or two of timing.

On my car, since it runs an MY01 ecu, there is a lean spot around VTEC engagement. With an AFPR I'll increase the pressure until my lean spot is now at my desired A/F ratio (or as close to as possible). While the rest of the fueling will now be more rich I'll just pull it back down into place with a VAFC and pick up the extra timing happily.

Maybe some people don't think like me

This would probably be pointless for someone with an emanage ultimate or an EMS, as they can just increase the timing, however increased fuel pressure means increased atomization, and thats never bad, lol

 

oh often do you take your f22 to 9k??

and what dose your dyno graph look like?

 

I like the way you think

 

well the Jenvy's and Hayward's are technically the same design right? I was talking to Lance about his ITB's and I was impressed. All the OEM plumbing matches up, so I just need a FPR and EMS/ Tune and im good to go.

 

LOL...that's what happens when an engineer starts talking.

 

Here's a copy of the dyno chart:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=m...mage&img=300053


I haven't ventured beyond 8500 yet and dont really plan to, makes sense after you see the dyno. It just makes sense to shift at 8500, you pick up a large gain in average power vs shifting at 8000, plus it's much easier not to fall out of VTEC

I'd like to get a set of these new brian crower stage 2 cams or maybe even just some AP1 cams as a low buck upgrade (do people do that?) to pick up some top end horsies.

VTEC definitely needs to be lowered on this motor, as I guess it comes on slightly later in an AP1. I think dropping the VTEC engagement point to 5600 like the hondata reflash for an 06 might work pretty well

 

Not sure if they are the same, actually. You will need some additional steel braided fuel line, fittings, and a new coolant line that runs from the water pump to the water neck at the back of the manifold. I also strongly advise to put the coolant temp sensor into the manifold, and plug in the harness, before you mount the manifold to the head, or you'll never get the wiring harness on the sensor.

 

Does the coolant temp sensor have a hole already in the manifold or is drilling required?

 

Mine had a hole already, but Roger (VolkGT-N) didn't on his first set (Jenvey's labeled as Fuji's) His first set wasn't a kit though, as you know, Jenveys are pieced together for the most part. His new TWM's do though, I believe.

 

so tell me, if you dyno'd without a RPM pick-up and Dyno's do not read torque, then how did you get a reading at all? the Dyno reads only Horsepower? kinda odd because HP is an equation of Torque over time,


dynos are torque reading Calculators..... in Horsepower = Torque * RPM / 5252, you need 2 out of 3 variables to figue any one variable Pefectly, if you dont have an RPM signal and the dyno dosent read torque you wont get a accurate number,

now if the Dyno Reads Torq ( which it dose). You can get a HP number without a RPM signal because the dyno will default to the Rotor speed, and calulate that with Torq and come up with a HP figure that wont be 100 % accurate.

so if you dyno'd without a RPM signal, your HP number will be off a bit on the high side, on my s2k back to back with and without the Tach hooked up it was 1-3 HP peak more than with the tach.