Cars on a stationary dyno are subject to so many different conditions, it's hard to ever get a 100% accurate reading. Many people discount the butt dyno, but it's a very effective way of gauging how much power you actually gained at speed. On a dyno, a car will only gain 2-3whp with an AEM v2 vs the stock uber-restrictive airbox. However at speed, the AEM setup probably gives around 7-8whp. It's the same thing with ITB's.

 

i would hardly call the stock intake restricitive. my numbers are made with the stock intake.

 

Good idea. I'm going to start fabrication on that next week. We have a sheetmetal shop at my family business

 

make me one too ....

 

Unless it has been gutted, it is restrictive. A big plastic wall blocking air from the air filter is not exactly the best way to make HP.

 

gutting the factory airbox has shown ZERO gains on the dyno..

 

I agree with the above, stock intake is just fine especially if you simply replace the filter with a K&N variety and add either a snorkle or AUT design cooling plate.

That big plastic wall isn't causing problems, as noted, gutting it shows zero gains, the air guide from the front of the box actually puts air into that chamber.

 

On a dyno, you're car is stationary, therefore intake gains appear minimal, if at all. I drove my car for 3 weeks with the stock airbox before I gutted it. There was a noticeable increase at speeds. I now have a short ram with an air duct, and it has definitely given me more power than I was getting from the stock airbox.

 

I dyno'd my stroker with the stock intake and the 10k mile old oem filter. I just added a K&N drop-in last week.

Stock intake > *

 

I will post in great detail regarding my S2K engine tuning saga with dynographs, images, etc. It will likely turn out to be something of a Novel doing it in this manner, but I still wish to wait until we are done none the less.