Official forced induction chat thread
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From: Olyphant, Pa
Originally Posted by jordannn93' timestamp='1387299096' post='22926808
What is the most psi I can get tuned on with pump 93 safely? 9.6:1 compression built bottom motor.
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I have a fueling problem...
On the dyno we discovered that the o-ring behind my FPR was in pieces. We replaced the o-ring but we aren't getting enough fuel delivery at upper RPM's. Fuel setup is ID1000's, stock rail, stock FPR, stock lines, Aeromotive 340 pump wired in with a relay. Only shooting for 350-400 HP on a Novi 1220 setup.
We have no clue how long that o-ring had been like that, and it could have been obstructing flow or not allowing fuel pressures to be consistent/correct. Ben thinks the pump is just not capable of flowing what its suppose to at the top-end, i.e. the pump has gone bad from this issue.
I'm planning on removing the injectors and sending them back to ID to have them cleaned/flow tested (~$80), swapping in a new pump (~$150), and a new FPR from Honda just because (~$90) and making sure my fuel rail is clean/clear. Anything else I should look into?
On the dyno we discovered that the o-ring behind my FPR was in pieces. We replaced the o-ring but we aren't getting enough fuel delivery at upper RPM's. Fuel setup is ID1000's, stock rail, stock FPR, stock lines, Aeromotive 340 pump wired in with a relay. Only shooting for 350-400 HP on a Novi 1220 setup.
We have no clue how long that o-ring had been like that, and it could have been obstructing flow or not allowing fuel pressures to be consistent/correct. Ben thinks the pump is just not capable of flowing what its suppose to at the top-end, i.e. the pump has gone bad from this issue.
I'm planning on removing the injectors and sending them back to ID to have them cleaned/flow tested (~$80), swapping in a new pump (~$150), and a new FPR from Honda just because (~$90) and making sure my fuel rail is clean/clear. Anything else I should look into?
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Why not just buy an aftermarket fpr and rail ?
I have an in cabin gauge on mine so I can make sure I am getting enough fuel supply without playing any guessing games. At least you will know the pump is probably the problem
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I have an in cabin gauge on mine so I can make sure I am getting enough fuel supply without playing any guessing games. At least you will know the pump is probably the problem
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Anyone have any tips and tricks to removing the crank pulley bolt 
I'm sure some of you have had your motors apart more often than together Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sure some of you have had your motors apart more often than together Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI have the 3.4" pulley which SOS has listed as 11.25 PSI on their chart (AP1). I saw 13 PSI max during my previous trip to the dyno. I don't have a build thread or anything, but I can tell you whatever you want to know in a PM or something if you're looking for info. I should hopefully hit 350 HP on this dyno (SuperFlow) which might be equivalent to about 380 HP on a DynoJet.
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Centreville, Va
Anyone have any tips and tricks to removing the crank pulley bolt
I'm sure some of you have had your motors apart more often than together
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I'm sure some of you have had your motors apart more often than together
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Geez, that piston looks terrible Eric. How scored were the walls of your block?
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It ripped off super quick I am glad it wasn't in the car. I'm sure I would have hit my hand, or bar into the fender lol.
Cylinder 4 had a penny-nickel sized chunk missed along with pretty deep scores. There was scoring in each cylinder with decreasing severeness from 4-1 both vertical and horizontal. Piston 4 was toast , piston 3 showed some wear and 2&1 seemed Ok. I think this would be from cylinder 4 running the hottest naturally ? Not sure. I'm not an engine builder or anything but the bearings seemed like they were fine and the crank was fine as well with no scoring. There was still oil in the squirters so I think they were working properly. Didn't seem to be an oil starvation problem
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Cylinder 4 had a penny-nickel sized chunk missed along with pretty deep scores. There was scoring in each cylinder with decreasing severeness from 4-1 both vertical and horizontal. Piston 4 was toast , piston 3 showed some wear and 2&1 seemed Ok. I think this would be from cylinder 4 running the hottest naturally ? Not sure. I'm not an engine builder or anything but the bearings seemed like they were fine and the crank was fine as well with no scoring. There was still oil in the squirters so I think they were working properly. Didn't seem to be an oil starvation problem
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From: Woodburn, OR
Anyone have any tips and tricks to removing the crank pulley bolt
I'm sure some of you have had your motors apart more often than together
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I'm sure some of you have had your motors apart more often than together
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