Official forced induction chat thread
Originally Posted by baZurk' timestamp='1398866365' post='23137108
[quote name='cmn' timestamp='1398866119' post='23137096']
Hmm. Is he running the Stage 2? Maybe I could get away with a stage 2. It would be quite a lot cheaper. It would suck if it's not enough though...
Hmm. Is he running the Stage 2? Maybe I could get away with a stage 2. It would be quite a lot cheaper. It would suck if it's not enough though...

What are your plans for the car?
it all depends on what you are going to do with the car and how hard you will drive it. plenty have survived on oem stock original diff/trans combo up to 500-550 whp or about 350-400wtq. i am still on my original oem trans/diff after 20k boosted miles. 450/300 for power. but i dont slam gears are laucnh the car.
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I'm at 500whp and nm. I drive the car somteimes to work, for spirited driving, and some trackdays (road track, not drag). I don't launch or slam gears, but I drive what most people say is relatively hard. I still have my stock trans with ~118 000 miles, but I have literally crushed the gears in 2 diffs under highway pulls (not launching or drifting etc). I think both were 2nd gear.
Gear life/wear/damage is very dependent on driving style and especially the roads/conditions you drive in - shock loads from dropping the clutch with grippy tyres, are immense, but so are shock loads from full throttle over a rough road if the tyres slip then grab on an edge.
Transmissions that would last 500bhp in a rally car for a season, and more than that for road use, don't last 3 months at 250bhp for us, yet someone that's not riding the car as hard might baby it out to a season if they drive knowing it's a weak link.
It's very hard to determine what is a safe power level because of that, and also because many who have no issues yet, could still be operating well into the fatigue zones for the transmission and just happen to be getting away with it for a little while.
Transmissions that would last 500bhp in a rally car for a season, and more than that for road use, don't last 3 months at 250bhp for us, yet someone that's not riding the car as hard might baby it out to a season if they drive knowing it's a weak link.
It's very hard to determine what is a safe power level because of that, and also because many who have no issues yet, could still be operating well into the fatigue zones for the transmission and just happen to be getting away with it for a little while.
Originally Posted by 2004TurboS' timestamp='1399046026' post='23141004
Switching from an mbc to an ebc am I able to setup the ebc myself or is this something complicated? Mac solonoid is being used
Can someone tell me what this vacuum line is/does? It comes off one of the ~5/16" ports on the intake manifold and tee's off under the IM. One side of the tee goes to right after the throttle body into a gold stub. The other side of the tee goes down under the car somewhere. I'd like to remove/cap these ports if possible. Just need to know what they're for and where that other line goes down under the car. Is it emissions related?






i think its something to do with either emissions or that vent system for the gas tank. i left it as i had no idea what would happen if i eliminated it.
^That's correct. I deleted them since AEM isn't looking for the purge solenoid anyway. You will see 3 metal (fuel) lines under the car; feed, return, evap/purge. The aforementioned hoses will terminate at the purge/evap line. Which EMS are you using?










