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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:08 AM
  #1591  
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BTW:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t...6&highlight=ssr

SSR Comp's 17x8.5 +58 with RE-01R's on them. Thought maybe someone would want to jump on those. Seller is asking 1600.
Old Apr 3, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #1592  
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Very nice, Jim. Does the spare tire still fit?
Old Apr 3, 2010 | 05:06 PM
  #1593  
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Originally Posted by Orthonormal,Apr 3 2010, 02:31 PM
Very nice, Jim. Does the spare tire still fit?
No. I need to take the adapters off, cut them down and rethread them (and cut a new hex on the end). I also need to do that on the front as I doubt the hood will close if I do the same thing.




Car feels great and much much more predictable with the increased rear bump travel. I did notice last night and today on the highway I get a shuddering vibration under throttle. I'm guessing the 194k mile rear CVs and the 1" lower rear-end is causing the shutter: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39249

Looks like I'll be trying to swap the axle-cups left to right this week as the freebie fix. The vibration is enough I'm concerned it could hurt the rear grip of the car.

Looking forward to the SD tour next weekend...
Old Apr 3, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #1594  
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Originally Posted by Random1,Apr 2 2010, 09:08 PM
If there is anything else to try please let me know. I am living with it for now. The interesting part is it sounds similar on both sides and only in the rear. At some point I may change the upper perch/top hat arrangement to pillow ball and Penske type upper spring perch.
The only thing I have for you now would be the spring knocking. Can you post or send me a picture of the shock? I just want to see how the spring is positioned. I think you posted your rear spring rate already but can you post it again?
Did you check your rear sway bar end links for play? Not likely but you never know I guess.
Old Apr 3, 2010 | 08:21 PM
  #1595  
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Originally Posted by macr88,Apr 3 2010, 08:31 PM
The only thing I have for you now would be the spring knocking. Can you post or send me a picture of the shock? I just want to see how the spring is positioned. I think you posted your rear spring rate already but can you post it again?
Did you check your rear sway bar end links for play? Not likely but you never know I guess.
There are some photos of the rear shocks near the end of the photo gallery at link below. I no longer have the helper springs/dividers in the rear, not needed with suspension pre-load. The rate is 600 lb/in for the rear. I did have the rear sway bar disconnected and it still made the sound. I went from no sound with Konis installed to sound with Penskes and lowering. Thanks

http://random1photo.zenfolio.com/p530911063
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #1596  
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I'm currently building my STR car and my Salvage Inspection isn't until the 23rd so I've got some time to play around with different spring rates. To save initial costs (Since I've spent $14k in the last month buying the car and everything needed to restore it) I think I'll stick with very low mileage 01 shocks (The rears also already had Swift springs on them, which I swapped over from my old car because I loved the progressive winding so much). I still need to get a roll bar and carbotech pads to get on the track by May 1st so I'm not going to fuss over the shocks just yet. Spring rates will probably be 392 F 336 R and sway bar will be 32mm Comptech non adjustable front and 05 AP2 rear. Do you guys think this is adding too much front bias or about where I should start with to balance out the 255mm non staggered tire setup?

The front will actually use Espelir ASD rear springs. From my calculations The front and rear springs need to be the same length and diameter. The OEM MY01 front springs are .6" longer than the back because they are that much softer, so the weight of the car will compress them .6" more. Therefore any rear spring should work on the front as well. The Espelir ASD's rear springs drop the rear by 1.2" and if used in the front should drop the front by 1" since the front is a slight bit lighter. If my experiment works out then this will be a great way for everyone to achieve CR spring rates/ balance with a 1" drop.
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 09:31 PM
  #1597  
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Originally Posted by Jreyenga,Apr 3 2010, 09:06 PM
No. I need to take the adapters off, cut them down and rethread them (and cut a new hex on the end). I also need to do that on the front as I doubt the hood will close if I do the same thing.




Car feels great and much much more predictable with the increased rear bump travel. I did notice last night and today on the highway I get a shuddering vibration under throttle. I'm guessing the 194k mile rear CVs and the 1" lower rear-end is causing the shutter: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39249

Looks like I'll be trying to swap the axle-cups left to right this week as the freebie fix. The vibration is enough I'm concerned it could hurt the rear grip of the car.

Looking forward to the SD tour next weekend...
swapping the cups is a bandaid, it will only "fix" the issue for a short time. Axles can easily be had from AP2 models for around $100 each from junkyards.
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 11:02 PM
  #1598  
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Originally Posted by Jreyenga,Apr 3 2010, 07:06 PM
No. I need to take the adapters off, cut them down and rethread them (and cut a new hex on the end). I also need to do that on the front as I doubt the hood will close if I do the same thing.




Car feels great and much much more predictable with the increased rear bump travel. I did notice last night and today on the highway I get a shuddering vibration under throttle. I'm guessing the 194k mile rear CVs and the 1" lower rear-end is causing the shutter: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39249

Looks like I'll be trying to swap the axle-cups left to right this week as the freebie fix. The vibration is enough I'm concerned it could hurt the rear grip of the car.

Looking forward to the SD tour next weekend...
If you're gonna do the Pro-Solo, might be wise to have a backup axle in case one snaps while launching. Axles go just as often as diffs. Fortunately, an axle can be replaced onsite in 30 minutes with some help and the right tools

James Yom
Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:14 AM
  #1599  
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Originally Posted by PilotSH,Apr 6 2010, 02:02 AM
If you're gonna do the Pro-Solo, might be wise to have a backup axle in case one snaps while launching. Axles go just as often as diffs. Fortunately, an axle can be replaced onsite in 30 minutes with some help and the right tools

James Yom
True, but hopefully with street tires it won't be as much of an issue as it was in Stock class.
Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:52 AM
  #1600  
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Originally Posted by PilotSH,Apr 5 2010, 11:02 PM
If you're gonna do the Pro-Solo, might be wise to have a backup axle in case one snaps while launching. Axles go just as often as diffs. Fortunately, an axle can be replaced onsite in 30 minutes with some help and the right tools

James Yom
Backup axles have been sitting in my garage for about a year. Did the El Toro pro last year launching at the rev-limiter.

Long story short, I'm pretty certain it's the front CV on my prop-shaft. Looks like one of the three times I had to drop the trans this last year and cut the prop shaft bolts off because I keep rounding them, I nicked the CV housing. All the grease has slung out. Last night, all 6 bolts where loose on the prop shaft... I figure it got hot and stretched the bolts. I bandaided the hole, packed it with grease, and bolted it back up. REALLY shocked I didn't shear it off this last weekend. It still has a little bit of on-power vibration, so I figure the CV is pretty toast (has a significant amount of play).

Off to find a cheap ebay prop-shaft....




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