Sustained 95% of max on shaved RE-11's - this ain't amateur hour here. Thats pretty typical for an STU car and not out of the question for an ST Civic or STS Miata either.

DA Koni's from TC-Kline shouldn't be more than $1700. Don't waste your money on anything from GC - get the Koni sleeves and buy any used springs you want.


You know you guys don't have to get them revalved by Koni in Kentucky right? They have 3 other authorized rebuild shops, I got mine done by Performance Shock in May of last year in less than a week.

 

That's pretty impressive. Our National STS guys here usually get ~1.2 ish g's. They had similar numbers at Lincoln the last time they went. I don't think any of them hit a sustained 1.3.

I tried ordering DA Konis directly... but it took months and they didn't even start my order.

I bought Jason Saini's old Motons instead.

 

My auto-x valved shocks took about 3 weeks to build/ship. This was right before race season started. Not too bad IMO. I didn't expect them in anything less than 6 weeks when placing an order in February.

Lee belongs to my local scca club and certainly puts for the effort to make sure his customers are happy. I'm sure there are some unhappy customers out there, but most seem happy. They do not sell direct to the public, but most shops should be able to place the order. He has even been known to refer business away from Koni to suit the best interests of a buyer. As Nick said, many places are certified to re-valve Koni shocks. The main reason I refer Lee is because of his knowledge and support. This may be useful when putting together a project such as this.

I have about 1100 into my custom valved yellows. That cost included new shocks and a rebuild. If you can find used yellows cheap enough, it should help lower the costs. Last time I checked, the rebuild costs are around 150-200 each depending where you get it done.

AS of early '09 when I shopped around for shocks...

Koni Yellows were 500+-

The TC Klines were around 2000-2500 last time I called.

The ASTs were around 900 each.

The Koni Race (custom built) were around 900-1000 each

Motons were 1000+ each

Penskes were 1250+ each

I didn't shop for any other brands. If I were to buy them now, I would lean towards the ASTs or Motons based on feedback from some local track guys.

 

Don't forget the diff. I think the S2000 has quite a bit to gain from a proper clutch-type, as you'll no longer have to tune around wheelspin avoidance. The ATS carbon 1.5-way is my current favorite, but there are other options out there.

 

[QUOTE=CKit,Jul 21 2009, 10:36 PM] That's pretty impressive.

 

TruChoice rebuilt my yellow-converted-doubles for $730-something, all said and done.

 

With the AST shocks, I talked with one of their recommended techs and asked about a comparable shock to the Motons. It is good to know they have a shock priced in TC Kline territory. I also have heard Moton came out with a cheaper shock as well. When I initially called TC Kline (or whatever the company was) I was hoping to get some for 1500-1750 range. Obviously I passed on them. I'm curious to see how cut backs and the economy may affect prices though...

Another thing many will probably need to do is to lightly roll the front fenders if you run a wheel with less offset like the Enkei. You will need to be very careful and know what your doing. Otherwise, you will end up cracking/chipping the paint. There are a few guys on here than know how to do this. "cuonice" in one person in the Louisville area that comes to mind.

 

Both DL1 and MaxQ. Just heard back from my ST Civic and STS Miata guys (National trophy winners). They're seeing numbers more consistent with what I am used to.

~1.15 sustained with some brief (but real) touches up to ~1.2.

Maybe your co-driver didn't filter out some of the superspikes from the MaxQ Data. It's kind of a pain in the but to go through the peaks and manually double check what the real grip was. If he went through quickly, he might have overestimated some of the grip.

Would be great if you could pull "1.3+ g's" out of an S2000 on street tires, though. I'll be rooting for you!

For us mere mortals, I'd say low 1.2's would be more typical / reproducible.

 

Nice thread, I was sick of reading people complaining as well.

I already started thinking about the LSD after reading so far, do people really think it is that big of a difference?? with the new rule change I no longer have to buy new wheels, so could definitely replace that with an LSD.

Also I have to get a cat back on my car, does anyone know if it has to be stock or can I safely pickup one of the high flow versions?

Last, is non-staggered the way to go or is there still an argument that the balance of a staggered setup defeats the extra rubber?

 

You want the maximum amount of rubber you can possibly fit under the fenders.

Worrying about "stagger" because all the internetz says you do is a complete waste of time. Any and all of the differences from running an equal track width front and rear are tuned around using springs, bars and alignment.