S2000 STR prep resource
Originally Posted by Random1,Jul 21 2010, 10:56 PM
When you say "stock valved" do you mean "off the shelf" or valved for stock class autocross (custom valving)?
Have you tried varying the rear rebound? I would try full soft if you have not already.
Be sure to go to full soft (stops) and then back off 1/8 of a turn. Koni sport rebound adjuster is not the best (described before). I would also try full soft on all corners.
Too much rebound in the front can inhibit weight transfer to the rear.
Have you tried varying the rear rebound? I would try full soft if you have not already.
Be sure to go to full soft (stops) and then back off 1/8 of a turn. Koni sport rebound adjuster is not the best (described before). I would also try full soft on all corners.
Too much rebound in the front can inhibit weight transfer to the rear.
They have been re-valved for AS (BS), but are still single adjustable.
I realize I am limited with what I can do because they aren't DA's but I honestly don't know if I am setting them anywhere close to where they should be. I understand shock theory quite well, but driving a car and knowing how to feel what it is doing is very very new to me.
Originally Posted by marks_lude,Jul 21 2010, 09:27 AM
Any of that make sense? I'd love to pull the rear bar, but with 225 front tires I expect a hindering amount of understeer if I do.
Is there any way to keep a balanced car, but keep the car either flatter or get more rear droop?
Is there any way to keep a balanced car, but keep the car either flatter or get more rear droop?
Again, knowing your bar wheel rates allows you to soften up the bars and increase the springs. Doing so allows you to increase individual wheel movement without decreasing roll resistance. Keep in mind that most production cars need bars to control roll because the springs alone can't handle the job.
Here are our results from this past weekend:
https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...7_2010_pax.htm
Pedroza drove Minehart's car in the afternoon.
Drew, Rob, and I compared mine and Drew's cars, swapping for a few runs in the afternoon. Though Drew's car had an extra 500rpm higher redline, his car was still bouncing the limiter at the exact same location as mine (indicating either higher corner exit speed or faster acceleration). Each car had its own driving style requirements, so the swapped cars were slower for the respective drivers.
We experimented with the Hankooks at 33psi and 35psi, 120*F to 160*F, and the times were all nearly identical. The times at 35psi were consistently faster than 33psi, but 35psi was all during afternoon runs. There may be a slight increase in rear bias approaching 160*F, but it is progressive so the driver can drive around the difference. Spraying can be done if the initial temp is hot enough and enough time is allowed for the tire to dry. If the run follows spraying too soon, the first braking zone is a little worse and rear slip is increased slightly. It disappears quickly.
https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...7_2010_pax.htm
Pedroza drove Minehart's car in the afternoon.
Drew, Rob, and I compared mine and Drew's cars, swapping for a few runs in the afternoon. Though Drew's car had an extra 500rpm higher redline, his car was still bouncing the limiter at the exact same location as mine (indicating either higher corner exit speed or faster acceleration). Each car had its own driving style requirements, so the swapped cars were slower for the respective drivers.
We experimented with the Hankooks at 33psi and 35psi, 120*F to 160*F, and the times were all nearly identical. The times at 35psi were consistently faster than 33psi, but 35psi was all during afternoon runs. There may be a slight increase in rear bias approaching 160*F, but it is progressive so the driver can drive around the difference. Spraying can be done if the initial temp is hot enough and enough time is allowed for the tire to dry. If the run follows spraying too soon, the first braking zone is a little worse and rear slip is increased slightly. It disappears quickly.
Originally Posted by imstimpy,Jul 26 2010, 02:28 PM
Here are our results from this past weekend:
https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...7_2010_pax.htm
Pedroza drove Minehart's car in the afternoon.
Drew, Rob, and I compared mine and Drew's cars, swapping for a few runs in the afternoon. Though Drew's car had an extra 500rpm higher redline, his car was still bouncing the limiter at the exact same location as mine (indicating either higher corner exit speed or faster acceleration). Each car had its own driving style requirements, so the swapped cars were slower for the respective drivers.
We experimented with the Hankooks at 33psi and 35psi, 120*F to 160*F, and the times were all nearly identical. The times at 35psi were consistently faster than 33psi, but 35psi was all during afternoon runs. There may be a slight increase in rear bias approaching 160*F, but it is progressive so the driver can drive around the difference. Spraying can be done if the initial temp is hot enough and enough time is allowed for the tire to dry. If the run follows spraying too soon, the first braking zone is a little worse and rear slip is increased slightly. It disappears quickly.
https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...7_2010_pax.htm
Pedroza drove Minehart's car in the afternoon.
Drew, Rob, and I compared mine and Drew's cars, swapping for a few runs in the afternoon. Though Drew's car had an extra 500rpm higher redline, his car was still bouncing the limiter at the exact same location as mine (indicating either higher corner exit speed or faster acceleration). Each car had its own driving style requirements, so the swapped cars were slower for the respective drivers.
We experimented with the Hankooks at 33psi and 35psi, 120*F to 160*F, and the times were all nearly identical. The times at 35psi were consistently faster than 33psi, but 35psi was all during afternoon runs. There may be a slight increase in rear bias approaching 160*F, but it is progressive so the driver can drive around the difference. Spraying can be done if the initial temp is hot enough and enough time is allowed for the tire to dry. If the run follows spraying too soon, the first braking zone is a little worse and rear slip is increased slightly. It disappears quickly.
Originally Posted by TheNick,Jul 26 2010, 12:15 PM
some pics &...
Got grip?
Got grip?
The only solace I can take from yesterday is after 3 runs, Dan was behind me in the STR car(thank you cones
), and those were his 8-10th runs of the day(he double entered and ran the CS MS-R first). That's my rationalization and I'm sticking to it! 
The course was very difficult to get a 10/10ths run on, especially considering the bumpiness of the lot. But to be sure, he is going very fast in Jason's MX-5(smoked us at the divisional last weekend), and they still have some work left to do on it before Nats.
It was interesting to drive Jon(imstimpy)'s car after mine. Despite what most would consider small differences in setup, the cars did exhibit pretty noticeable differences in handling. Neither was necessarily better or worse than the other, just different. I obviously preferred the characteristics of my own car(which was a bit more point-y), but that is to be expected
Originally Posted by josh7owens,Jul 26 2010, 12:27 PM
you like the even tire pressure all the way around? I know some people have been running 38f/35-6r (rs-3)

While I was incredibly consistent this past event, I have yet to quantify differences in pressures while on course. I've now run 32-38psi and the only conclusion is higher pressures (~38psi) have a peaky feel to them.
Once I find a pressure I like, I tend to leave pressures alone except as a very fine tweak often coinciding with excessive heat.
I'm not saying any of this is right, but it is what I do...
I just finished up my spherical bearing top mount project. I use TheNick's idea and it worked out great! So thanks to Nick for the R&D.
After a test drive I'd say the car is more composed over bumps and it has a more direct road feeling, which I like.
I also removed my Torrington bearings since they were mostly destroyed from rust and road grime. This gave me about a 1/4 inch drop which I badly needed.
After a test drive I'd say the car is more composed over bumps and it has a more direct road feeling, which I like.
I also removed my Torrington bearings since they were mostly destroyed from rust and road grime. This gave me about a 1/4 inch drop which I badly needed.




