S2000 STR prep resource
F. The engine management system parameters and operation may be
modifi ed only via the methods listed below. Any and all modifi cations
must meet or exceed the applicable EPA tailpipe emissions stan14.
STREET TOURING CATEGORY — 87
dards for the year, make, and model of the car. These allowances
also apply to forced induction cars, except that no changes to standard
boost levels, intercoolers, or boost controls are permitted. Boost
changes indirectly resulting from allowed modifi cations are permissible,
but directly altering or modifying the boost or turbo controls,
either mechanically or electronically, is strictly prohibited.
1. Reprogrammed ECU (via hardware and/or software) may be used
in the standard housing. Traction control parameters may not be
altered. Altered engine controllers may not alter boost levels in
forced induction engines. Alternate software maps which violate
these restrictions may not be present during competition, regardless
of activation.
2. Electronic components may be installed in-line between an engine’s
sensors and ECU. These components may alter the signal
coming from the sensor in order to affect the ECU’s operation of
engine management system. Example: fuel controllers that modify
the signal coming from an airfl ow sensor.
3. Fuel pressure regulators may be replaced in lieu of electronic alterations
to the fuel system. It is not permitted to electronically
modify the fuel system AND replace a fuel pressure regulator.
4. Ignition timing may be set at any point on factory adjustable distributor
ignition systems.
5. VTEC controllers and other devices may be used which alter the
timing of factory standard electronic variable valve timing systems.
6. All vehicles must comply with the EPA tailpipe emissions test requirements
as a minimum.
modifi ed only via the methods listed below. Any and all modifi cations
must meet or exceed the applicable EPA tailpipe emissions stan14.
STREET TOURING CATEGORY — 87
dards for the year, make, and model of the car. These allowances
also apply to forced induction cars, except that no changes to standard
boost levels, intercoolers, or boost controls are permitted. Boost
changes indirectly resulting from allowed modifi cations are permissible,
but directly altering or modifying the boost or turbo controls,
either mechanically or electronically, is strictly prohibited.
1. Reprogrammed ECU (via hardware and/or software) may be used
in the standard housing. Traction control parameters may not be
altered. Altered engine controllers may not alter boost levels in
forced induction engines. Alternate software maps which violate
these restrictions may not be present during competition, regardless
of activation.
2. Electronic components may be installed in-line between an engine’s
sensors and ECU. These components may alter the signal
coming from the sensor in order to affect the ECU’s operation of
engine management system. Example: fuel controllers that modify
the signal coming from an airfl ow sensor.
3. Fuel pressure regulators may be replaced in lieu of electronic alterations
to the fuel system. It is not permitted to electronically
modify the fuel system AND replace a fuel pressure regulator.
4. Ignition timing may be set at any point on factory adjustable distributor
ignition systems.
5. VTEC controllers and other devices may be used which alter the
timing of factory standard electronic variable valve timing systems.
6. All vehicles must comply with the EPA tailpipe emissions test requirements
as a minimum.
Is the only thing keeping the throttle cable cars using the VAFC the fact that a PRB ecu board and K-Pro won't fit in the S2000 ECU housing?
Flashpro meets the rules because it is reprogrammed via software. Has nothing to do with hardware.
K-Pro will never ever be legal even if you get it to fit in the stock housing simply because it requires you to replace the valve cover and other various sensors that are not legal in the ST classes (pretty much bumps you to SSM or FP I think)
K-Pro will never ever be legal even if you get it to fit in the stock housing simply because it requires you to replace the valve cover and other various sensors that are not legal in the ST classes (pretty much bumps you to SSM or FP I think)
Found some videos of the car the other day.
This one is from a few month back before I fixed the rear shock travel:
http://www.vimeo.com/10792860
This is last weekend... car is a bit more composed now:
http://www.vimeo.com/13473156
(I have no idea how to imbed the video
)
This one is from a few month back before I fixed the rear shock travel:
http://www.vimeo.com/10792860
This is last weekend... car is a bit more composed now:
http://www.vimeo.com/13473156
(I have no idea how to imbed the video
)
Originally Posted by Jreyenga,Jul 20 2010, 06:29 PM
Found some videos of the car the other day.
This one is from a few month back before I fixed the rear shock travel:
http://www.vimeo.com/10792860
This is last weekend... car is a bit more composed now:
http://www.vimeo.com/13473156
(I have no idea how to imbed the video
)
This one is from a few month back before I fixed the rear shock travel:
http://www.vimeo.com/10792860
This is last weekend... car is a bit more composed now:
http://www.vimeo.com/13473156
(I have no idea how to imbed the video
)That counter steering in the first video reminds me of the SD Tour where I was riding on bump stops. I ordered shorter rear shock bodies and should be getting them this week.
What are people running for shock length from the lower bolt center to the top of the shock? With shortened shock body (6.5") my rear shock will be about 10.5".
Keep in mind that actual travel will vary depending on the upper spring perch/top hat used.
Has anyone been seeing the common AS issue of wheel lift in STR much? I know Drew mentioned he sees wheel spin occasionally...
I finally got tire pressures semi sorted (I've haven't yet had the time to really do a study on good pressures, so I have been running way under pressured in the past). Seems like the grip went up, and this last event I had gobs of wheel spin.
Always at corner exit, when you're getting back on the gas. the 2 places I got wheel spin were at a tight right hand pinch into and uphill slalom, and a pretty open right hand sweeper at exit into the finish line straight.
My setup is:
-225/245 Dunlop Direzza Z1 ss
-TheNick's old stock valved Koni's
-650F/600R lb springs
-2.5F/2.3R camber
-0front 1/8rear toe in.
-About 1"F and .75" rear ride height drop.
-Swaybars: Front solid gendron full stiff, Rear stock '01 bar.
My thoughts are
-The stock class valving has so much rebound that it is holding up the rear.
-I reduced the spring rate F/R ratio with 650/600 so the front is too soft for the rear (relative to stock F/R ratio). Coupled with the beefy 01' rear sway, there isn't much droop available in the rear
-My wheel isn't lifting much, but my diff is old and shot? (is this even possible?)
Any of that make sense? I'd love to pull the rear bar, but with 225 front tires I expect a hindering amount of understeer if I do.
Is there any way to keep a balanced car, but keep the car either flatter or get more rear droop?
I finally got tire pressures semi sorted (I've haven't yet had the time to really do a study on good pressures, so I have been running way under pressured in the past). Seems like the grip went up, and this last event I had gobs of wheel spin.
Always at corner exit, when you're getting back on the gas. the 2 places I got wheel spin were at a tight right hand pinch into and uphill slalom, and a pretty open right hand sweeper at exit into the finish line straight.
My setup is:
-225/245 Dunlop Direzza Z1 ss
-TheNick's old stock valved Koni's
-650F/600R lb springs
-2.5F/2.3R camber
-0front 1/8rear toe in.
-About 1"F and .75" rear ride height drop.
-Swaybars: Front solid gendron full stiff, Rear stock '01 bar.
My thoughts are
-The stock class valving has so much rebound that it is holding up the rear.
-I reduced the spring rate F/R ratio with 650/600 so the front is too soft for the rear (relative to stock F/R ratio). Coupled with the beefy 01' rear sway, there isn't much droop available in the rear
-My wheel isn't lifting much, but my diff is old and shot? (is this even possible?)
Any of that make sense? I'd love to pull the rear bar, but with 225 front tires I expect a hindering amount of understeer if I do.
Is there any way to keep a balanced car, but keep the car either flatter or get more rear droop?
Originally Posted by marks_lude,Jul 21 2010, 10:27 AM
my diff is old and shot? (is this even possible?)
Originally Posted by marks_lude,Jul 21 2010, 09:27 AM
I know Drew mentioned he sees wheel spin occasionally...
I think you have too much forward rake. I lowered the rear of my car a significant amount more than the front. It stabilized the car a bunch, and I can stand on the throttle from mid corner/off without any issues with wheelspin. The first time I installed the springs I left the rear bar on and I auto-xed it once on the DD tires, and didn't have problems with inside rear wheelspin.
It is highly unlikely it is related to shock damping.
Originally Posted by alvanderp,Jul 21 2010, 03:32 PM
Only on the street, and over bumps while turning and accelerating hard in 1st gear. I've run the car twice in STR trim now and have not had any issues, in fact quite the opposite.
I think you have too much forward rake. I lowered the rear of my car a significant amount more than the front. It stabilized the car a bunch, and I can stand on the throttle from mid corner/off without any issues with wheelspin. The first time I installed the springs I left the rear bar on and I auto-xed it once on the DD tires, and didn't have problems with inside rear wheelspin.
It is highly unlikely it is related to shock damping.
I think you have too much forward rake. I lowered the rear of my car a significant amount more than the front. It stabilized the car a bunch, and I can stand on the throttle from mid corner/off without any issues with wheelspin. The first time I installed the springs I left the rear bar on and I auto-xed it once on the DD tires, and didn't have problems with inside rear wheelspin.
It is highly unlikely it is related to shock damping.
I figured it probably wasn't rebound since it was corner exit, but I don't always trust my own guesswork
Originally Posted by marks_lude,Jul 21 2010, 10:27 AM
Has anyone been seeing the common AS issue of wheel lift in STR much? I know Drew mentioned he sees wheel spin occasionally...
I finally got tire pressures semi sorted (I've haven't yet had the time to really do a study on good pressures, so I have been running way under pressured in the past). Seems like the grip went up, and this last event I had gobs of wheel spin.
Always at corner exit, when you're getting back on the gas. the 2 places I got wheel spin were at a tight right hand pinch into and uphill slalom, and a pretty open right hand sweeper at exit into the finish line straight.
My setup is:
-225/245 Dunlop Direzza Z1 ss
-TheNick's old stock valved Koni's
-650F/600R lb springs
-2.5F/2.3R camber
-0front 1/8rear toe in.
-About 1"F and .75" rear ride height drop.
-Swaybars: Front solid gendron full stiff, Rear stock '01 bar.
My thoughts are
-The stock class valving has so much rebound that it is holding up the rear.
-I reduced the spring rate F/R ratio with 650/600 so the front is too soft for the rear (relative to stock F/R ratio). Coupled with the beefy 01' rear sway, there isn't much droop available in the rear
-My wheel isn't lifting much, but my diff is old and shot? (is this even possible?)
Any of that make sense? I'd love to pull the rear bar, but with 225 front tires I expect a hindering amount of understeer if I do.
Is there any way to keep a balanced car, but keep the car either flatter or get more rear droop?
I finally got tire pressures semi sorted (I've haven't yet had the time to really do a study on good pressures, so I have been running way under pressured in the past). Seems like the grip went up, and this last event I had gobs of wheel spin.
Always at corner exit, when you're getting back on the gas. the 2 places I got wheel spin were at a tight right hand pinch into and uphill slalom, and a pretty open right hand sweeper at exit into the finish line straight.
My setup is:
-225/245 Dunlop Direzza Z1 ss
-TheNick's old stock valved Koni's
-650F/600R lb springs
-2.5F/2.3R camber
-0front 1/8rear toe in.
-About 1"F and .75" rear ride height drop.
-Swaybars: Front solid gendron full stiff, Rear stock '01 bar.
My thoughts are
-The stock class valving has so much rebound that it is holding up the rear.
-I reduced the spring rate F/R ratio with 650/600 so the front is too soft for the rear (relative to stock F/R ratio). Coupled with the beefy 01' rear sway, there isn't much droop available in the rear
-My wheel isn't lifting much, but my diff is old and shot? (is this even possible?)
Any of that make sense? I'd love to pull the rear bar, but with 225 front tires I expect a hindering amount of understeer if I do.
Is there any way to keep a balanced car, but keep the car either flatter or get more rear droop?
When you say "stock valved" do you mean "off the shelf" or valved for stock class autocross (custom valving)?
Have you tried varying the rear rebound? I would try full soft if you have not already.
Be sure to go to full soft (stops) and then back off 1/8 of a turn. Koni sport rebound adjuster is not the best (described before). I would also try full soft on all corners.
Too much rebound in the front can inhibit weight transfer to the rear.






