Okay... I had my 1st event with my new springs (650F/500R), c/o conversion for my TC Kline DA's, and RE11's (local venue tires). Unfortunately, it is the anti-course/venue to the above... It was 95% 1st gear and sooo slick. In fact, I'm using it as a place to tune for for a wet event.

Anyway... I had a great time trying figuring out how to work with all my settings and tire pressures. I ended up with the following settings (read... likely be my starting point for wet events):
Front and Rear:
...Rebound- 1/4 turn from full soft
...Compression- full soft
...Tire Pressure- 30psi

Other settings:
FSB: 2nd from stiffest setting (custom 1.375 hollow gendron bar)
RSB: 2001 OE
Since I don't have the gendron standard hollow bar, I kept the RSB on to compensate... maybe a bad idea? I am hoping to get the standard hollow bar for a swap of my solid bar from another S2KI member, and maybe I can remove the rear bar then. Maybe?

It was still slicker than $h!t, but mostly controllable... with lots of throttle oversteer in turns. I ended up 3rd RAW and 4th PAX, which is slightly better than the norm when I was in stock class. So, I am quite happy to be that far up with my 1st event with this new setup. I hope to make a few more adjustments (driver and setup) to put me near the top.

BTW, how is everyone able to get more than 1.6 degrees of front camber on the drivers side and still be STR legal? Is this legal:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/Products/sus...ontrol_arm_set/

Thanks,

-Dave

Edit: due to grammar > me

 

J's racing offset lower ball joints.

 

with stock adjusters at my lowered ride height I get -2 ish no problem

 

-1.6 to -2.0 is the common limit for front camber at stock height. If you have lowered the car and can't get more than -1.6, something isn't right.

 

I was only able to get like 1.9 on the left front on my silver car - that is at a lowered ride height.

 

I barely gained anything in the front when I lowered it, maybe a couple tenths of a degree. There isn't as much camber gain in that area of travel as you think. The rear is a different matter, though.

 

Even if you gain no camber from lowering, you should still be able to get -1.6.

 

Agreed - I think it's time for Dave to look into new front LCAs or aftermarket compliance bushings.

 

I'm at -1.6... just not able to get more than -1.6. Does that mean I need new front LCA's?

 

It seems that an OS Giken diff really tightens up a car. Now, let's say you have a well balanced car in terms of spring and sway bars and you add a diff. Will that diff allow the front to still function while adding extra stability to the rear? If so, I want one.