S2000 STR prep resource
Sure, those numbers look familiar, and it's the same process that I used to pick about 2.6 Fr and 2.3 Rr frequencies for my setup which equated to about 800 & 700 lb springs.
Josh, the best you can do is pick the frequency that you can live with, then plug in the numbers.
Now that the season is over I've been thinking about the street-ability of my setup. Now that I have run on monoball suspension points and the stock rubber bushings I prefer the bushings for every day driving, considering that we have concrete and pothole roads everywhere. So for now, I've lowered the spring rate to just above the CR, and tonight I'm putting on the stock top mounts, for comfort.
In the spring I may even race on this setup, keeping my Konis on, just for fun, if I'm around.
Josh, the best you can do is pick the frequency that you can live with, then plug in the numbers.
Now that the season is over I've been thinking about the street-ability of my setup. Now that I have run on monoball suspension points and the stock rubber bushings I prefer the bushings for every day driving, considering that we have concrete and pothole roads everywhere. So for now, I've lowered the spring rate to just above the CR, and tonight I'm putting on the stock top mounts, for comfort.
In the spring I may even race on this setup, keeping my Konis on, just for fun, if I'm around.
Originally Posted by josh7owens,Dec 16 2010, 03:57 PM
Unless we know what the Ideal wheel rate is, these numbers mean nothing, correct?
Originally Posted by robinson,Dec 16 2010, 05:39 PM
Sure, those numbers look familiar, and it's the same process that I used to pick about 2.6 Fr and 2.3 Rr frequencies for my setup which equated to about 800 & 700 lb springs.
Josh, the best you can do is pick the frequency that you can live with, then plug in the numbers.
Josh, the best you can do is pick the frequency that you can live with, then plug in the numbers.
do we know Nicks frequencies and his roll rates, and bias?
-thanks
Originally Posted by nmrado,Dec 16 2010, 02:47 PM
It's a decent way to choose a starting point for a build. It also gives you more knowledge about front:rear balance and how hardware changes (springs, bars, weight reduction, etc.) will affect that balance. Does the numbers mean absolutely nothing? Heck no... they're just another tuning tool.
Just to poke holes in the natural frequency argument, it takes 1200lb springs to run an "ideal" natural frequency on an STU E36/E46 M3. We ranged from 550lb-750lb. Whoops.
What is ideal? The stiffest you can stand without being annoying, the bias that lets you focus on the course, the height that gets through your driveway. Oh wait, that is my ideal setup.
Originally Posted by robinson,Dec 16 2010, 07:17 PM
The range you are asking about is in your quote, Josh. It's getting a little old reinventing the wheel for you.
Originally Posted by josh7owens,Dec 16 2010, 03:57 PM
For a street/autox/track car, high 1.X to low 2.X Hz are good start. For more performance-oriented streetable car, start at low 2-ish Hz. High 2-ish becomes bone-jarring and 3Hz is a bit too much for the streets IMO.
If you believe Dennis Grant,
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets5.html
Measure your corner weights, unsprung masses, and motion ratios, and then pick springs that put the front NF at 2.2 Hz and the rear at 2.5 Hz.
Originally Posted by PedalFaster,Dec 16 2010, 09:26 PM
The set up I was thinking about using is 2.61 hz front/2.27 hz rear which would be 15% towards the front. The roll rate would be a 68% front bias. I'm curious how it turns out.
I'm curious what thenicks numbers are.
I'm also trying to figure out what "65% critical" means when your talking about shock settings but that can be for another day after I get my shocks rebuilt and post shock dynos in my jrz thread.
-edit like robinson just said I at first thought he was talking about fwd cars.



