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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 07:42 AM
  #3261  
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Originally Posted by Orthonormal,Jan 24 2011, 12:28 PM
The '06+ have different gearing than the '04-'05? Tell me more.
I'm with ya there...

I did not think there was a gearing difference between the AP2v1 (04-05) and AP2v2's (06+). I'm just a lowly AP1 owner (10 year old car now), so I could have missed that, but I would be surprised there was a difference.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 07:50 AM
  #3262  
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Originally Posted by daverx7,Jan 24 2011, 08:42 AM
I'm with ya there...

I did not think there was a gearing difference between the AP2v1 (04-05) and AP2v2's (06+). I'm just a lowly AP1 owner (10 year old car now), so I could have missed that, but I would be surprised there was a difference.
... gearing is identical.. until 06+ uses Hondata/reflash. Then they have an 8500 rpm redline which changes the top speed in 2nd gear.

04-05 can't do that.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:10 AM
  #3263  
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Ok, I'm feeling pretty dense here. The proposed 14.10.F allows piggyback ECU controllers? I know nothing about ECUs, what are some examples of piggybacks that would be legal if this is accepted?

a) Connects between the standard ECU and its wiring harness only.
b) Must be plug-compatible with the standard ECU (no splices).
What the heck does 'b)' mean? By definition, won't we have to splice into the harness? Can this controller fully bypass the stock ECU?

Does this mean that the early cars have the same unlimited tuning options that the 06+ cars have? If so, cool! I liked the little power bump that I got when lowering VTEC engagement with a VAFC, and that was without any fuel tuning.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:13 AM
  #3264  
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Originally Posted by captain_pants,Jan 24 2011, 12:10 PM
Ok, I'm feeling pretty dense here. The proposed 14.10.F allows piggyback ECU controllers? I know nothing about ECUs, what are some examples of piggybacks that would be legal if this is accepted?


What the heck does 'b)' mean? By definition, won't we have to splice into the harness? Can this controller fully bypass the stock ECU?

Does this mean that the early cars have the same unlimited tuning options that the 06+ cars have? If so, cool! I liked the little power bump that I got when lowering VTEC engagement with a VAFC, and that was without any fuel tuning.
The intent is that the piggyback can be unplugged in impound and the car still runs and drives.

No soldering or splicing. Only plug and play via a harness.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #3265  
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So, I've been thinking more and more about the idea of eliminating the need for anti-roll bars all together. With reasonable coil rates and tuning of roll-center heights, it seems like it would be completely possible to build a suspension setup that did not need anti-roll bars to control chassis roll. And, it would be nice to drop 30 or 40 lbs from the chassis.

Perhaps I have not done enough research, though. Has anyone tried this approach before? Are their any disadvantages to this approach, e.g. eliminating the dynamic load coupling between both right and left sides, etc?

Just thinkin' out loud...
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:37 AM
  #3266  
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Originally Posted by TheNick,Jan 24 2011, 12:13 PM
The intent is that the piggyback can be unplugged in impound and the car still runs and drives.

No soldering or splicing. Only plug and play via a harness.
such as Jeff Evans New upcomming plug and play haltech sport 500 and sport 1000. Greddy E-manage using a boomslang plug and play harness would be another one but I would prefer the haltech any day. plus Jeffs shop is 30 mins away from my cousins house. Which is a 10 hour drive but I could make a weekend out of it. To bad it won't be legal till 2012. I'll just save money till then.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:41 AM
  #3267  
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Originally Posted by nmrado,Jan 24 2011, 12:31 PM
So, I've been thinking more and more about the idea of eliminating the need for anti-roll bars all together. With reasonable coil rates and tuning of roll-center heights, it seems like it would be completely possible to build a suspension setup that did not need anti-roll bars to control chassis roll. And, it would be nice to drop 30 or 40 lbs from the chassis.

Perhaps I have not done enough research, though. Has anyone tried this approach before? Are their any disadvantages to this approach, e.g. eliminating the dynamic load coupling between both right and left sides, etc?

Just thinkin' out loud...
The only concern I would have would be the loss of quick weight transfer for slaloms. If you can maintain that without bars then that would be golden. I hate how a big front bar takes away from maxium front tire grip (understeer "issues") but god I love the feel of it in a quick transition.

Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #3268  
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Originally Posted by Random1,Jan 23 2011, 07:55 PM
Another rear mount option if you feel like doing some fabrication work. Canister mounts to 1/4 aluminum. It uses the subframe mounting bolt just above the rear sway bar to hold it in place. The canister ends up just on the other side of the subframe from what Nick shows. In this position it relatively easy to adjust and check/fill the canister with nitrogen.



This front option keeps the canister out of the engine bay heat and can be adjusted with the wheel in place and car on the ground.

I need to get some sweet setup like that rob.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:58 AM
  #3269  
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I've tried no bars and it is awesome but it sucks. No, really, I liked it for driving on bumpy roads but yes, transitions were horrible. There is little doubt in my mind that to achieve roll resistance like you'd want, the coil rates would be so high that bump compliance would be out of this world and the car wouldn't stay on the ground.
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #3270  
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Originally Posted by ///MIKE,Jan 24 2011, 10:50 AM
... gearing is identical.. until 06+ uses Hondata/reflash. Then they have an 8500 rpm redline which changes the top speed in 2nd gear.

04-05 can't do that.
Not technically true.

I ran the Mugen N1 ECU (AP1 ECU) last year, with it's 9000 RRM limiter.



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