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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 04:54 AM
  #3501  
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Originally Posted by TheNick,Feb 25 2011, 08:56 AM
I have no dog in this fight anymore, I've learned my lesson - now I'm just trying to recoup my losses (well I will be as soon as I have time to start pulling the car apart).
Hate to see ya part out your AP2 STR. Just curious, why are ya punting with this platform? Are you going to the MX5 land? My co-driver has a MX5 and once he begins building it for STR, it will be a tough decision to stay with my car or switch to his.

-Dave
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 05:55 AM
  #3502  
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Originally Posted by an2ny,Feb 24 2011, 06:00 PM
^Still interesting info.
When will this issue be out?
"but I can share that it did not amount to any where close to the original .66 second time difference."
So the 245s were faster but not 0.66 seconds like before?
The follow-up article should make the June issue which will be on newstands in May.

Out of respect to GRM, who sponsored the test along with Tire Rack, I can't give away the details until its published. I can only say the end results (for both drivers) were very much in line with our previous experiences when dealing with wheel weight changes on our test track.


Chris Harvey
Tire Rack/Grassroots 2010 MX5 - Project STR
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 06:26 AM
  #3503  
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Sorry for the thread hijack.
Anybody attending Dixie need a codriver? I will be down there helping with the Evo Advantage on Friday and I am entered in BSP right now in my STi on street tires but would welcome a an STR drive for that weekend if possible. I codrove last year in Nick's S2000 that he is parting out. Contact me at andy dot hohl at evoschool dot com

p.s. Thanks to Merdith I have an STR drive for Dixie.
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 06:54 AM
  #3504  
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Originally Posted by TheNick,Feb 25 2011, 04:56 AM
Nope just trying to help.

I have no dog in this fight anymore, I've learned my lesson - now I'm just trying to recoup my losses (well I will be as soon as I have time to start pulling the car apart).
The wink face meant I was kidding. It was funny because it was ridiculous, you've always been a huge help around here.

What lesson is that that you learned? Also do let me know as soon as you start parting out parts, I might be interested in some.
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 07:24 AM
  #3505  
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Originally Posted by TRTrent,Feb 24 2011, 02:00 PM
Past experience has shown us that the small wheel weight difference has a minimal impact on run times on a smooth course. After the article was printed, we received several questions about this, so we went back (after Nationals) and retested the same tires on identical weight wheels to see how much of the time difference may have come from the wheels alone.
Those tests results will be in a future issue of GRM, but I can share that it did not amount to any where close to the original .66 second time difference. In short, the better acceleration due to lower gearing and the increase in driver confidence due to the more precise feel of the 245 won out in this particular test, under these conditions etc.

-Chris Harvey
Tire Rack/GRM Project STR - 2010 MX5
Thanks for chiming in Chris.

I remember reading your thoughts in the original article and you just restated the biggest point I took from it: driver confidence and feel. Those two things can trump the theoretical superior solutions.
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 11:49 AM
  #3506  
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Originally Posted by daverx7,Feb 25 2011, 08:54 AM
Just curious, why are ya punting with this platform?

-Dave
Its about 600lbs too heavy.



I'm not going anywhere. Probably not driving much at all. Going to wait until ST* settles down in a few years. I'm not interested in dumping $25k into a vehicle to drive it less than 300miles a year and not be competitive.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:10 PM
  #3507  
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just wanted to note, any one interested in the ball bearing bar mounts needs to be prepared to grind the crap out of thier bar. I tried the "light sanding" bull crap and then tried hammering them on and it wasn't happening! I spent 4 hours tonight trying to get this bar togeather. I had to beat the crap out of it to get the bearing back off then broke out the grinder and went to town. Then got it all back togeather. O also you can't re-use all of your swaybar bolts either, why you ask? Because he welds the side so close to the hole that you cant get the bolt in. I had to grind down the "built in washer" and then was able to put in the bolt. For $285 you would think they wouldn't require so much work and atleast include the 4 bolts you need. It would cost him a extra $1.25 at most.

-rant!
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 03:43 AM
  #3508  
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Originally Posted by josh7owens
just wanted to note, any one interested in the ball bearing bar mounts needs to be prepared to grind the crap out of thier bar. I tried the "light sanding" bull crap and then tried hammering them on and it wasn't happening! I spent 4 hours tonight trying to get this bar togeather. I had to beat the crap out of it to get the bearing back off then broke out the grinder and went to town. Then got it all back togeather. O also you can't re-use all of your swaybar bolts either, why you ask? Because he welds the side so close to the hole that you cant get the bolt in. I had to grind down the "built in washer" and then was able to put in the bolt. For $285 you would think they wouldn't require so much work and atleast include the 4 bolts you need. It would cost him a extra $1.25 at most.

-rant!
When I bought the swaybar and bearing mounts at same time it was already clearanced for me. In case anyone needed to know that.
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 04:09 AM
  #3509  
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Originally Posted by josh7owens
just wanted to note, any one interested in the ball bearing bar mounts needs to be prepared to grind the crap out of thier bar. I tried the "light sanding" bull crap and then tried hammering them on and it wasn't happening! I spent 4 hours tonight trying to get this bar togeather. I had to beat the crap out of it to get the bearing back off then broke out the grinder and went to town. Then got it all back togeather. O also you can't re-use all of your swaybar bolts either, why you ask? Because he welds the side so close to the hole that you cant get the bolt in. I had to grind down the "built in washer" and then was able to put in the bolt. For $285 you would think they wouldn't require so much work and atleast include the 4 bolts you need. It would cost him a extra $1.25 at most.

-rant!
Josh,
You did not mention how the manufacture (Gendron?) did or did not help you with the product once you discovered a problem? Was he not willing to help you out with your issues?
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 04:17 AM
  #3510  
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I bought mine at the same time. The second set purchased and the bar had to be sanded for 30 minutes before it was just right. I didn't want to grind just in case it cause the clearance to become too loose.

I figure it was all worth it since I won't have to remove the bar 2x a year to lube the bushings.



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