I have been running 700f 600r Saner front bar on Medium and no rear bar, About to do some testing with the bar on full stiff at my next event...

 

I don't eat my fenders with the '00 front bar, no rear bar and 900f/800r lb/in springs. My ride height is just a touch taller than Random1's.

EDIT: I am using 245/40/17s at the moment. Depending on wear, there's not discernible difference in the height of the 255 vs. the 245 RS3.

 

Current setup: 780f/680r, Saner bar on middle setting, no rear bar. -2.8f, 0 toe, 6 caster, -2.5r, 3.32 total toe. Car is at 24.5 all around.

I thought it was working well until I drove Banannie's CR.

New diff goes in tomorrow ...

 

I'm at 24.75 front and 24.675 rear which works out to 12.25 from the hub center to the fender all the way around. I eat fender tabs All the time.

 

I bent up the tabs for the fender liners then used zip ties to attach the liner... worked wonders!

 

Does anyone have Jim's contact or is he a user on here (screen name?)

 

He's the op of this thread

 

I don't care what the math says, I look at what the car is doing and adjust in the appropriate direction. Calculating things to 3 decimal places is useless if you base it off of incomplete information - like the lateral force/downward force curves of your tires at your camber settings. Do you agree that different friction coefficients would necessitate different setups? The common knowledge is that higher grip induces more understeer and lower grip induces more oversteer. We're on a very unique lot where there isn't a huge grip difference between Hoosiers and Dunlops. (cue Twilight Zone music here, I don't get it either!)

I think my setup would push like a stock Camry on grippy concrete. I'll be taking my rear bar when we go to Canadian Nationals in September!

 

Whew, that is how I do things. Sometimes I even adjust things in the wrong direction, and if it gets worse, I adjust it the other way.

-Dave

 

I agree, Although we are not F1. We don't go to "the track" and tune for a week, qualify, and then race. We drive our DD cars to a parking lot and drive around cones. So yes the car should be tuned for each surface but thats kind of hard to do with our limited funds and time on course. I'm not saying your set-up doesn't work. I'm just saying from what I've seen that would be pushy on a lot like the ones we run on. If it works for you then great. I agree a car with higher grip induses more understeer but thiers a difference in having grip and being able to get on the throttle early. I much rather drive up to a turn, turn in, and throttle out, not drive up to a turn, turn in, be patient waiting for the car to pass the apex, start straightening out the wheel, than get on the throttle. Races are won by the people that get on the throttle the earliest. My car is far from being "ideal", hell it only has one event on the new alignment and that was in the rain. My set-up should work and seemed to last weekend but it's not proven and still needs testing. A car that pushes in a turn isn't a ideal set-up for my self. I like a more balanced car that I can throw in at turn in and get on the throttle early with as minimum "wait" as possible.

Good luck at your national race at the end of the year. I recommend trying to get some seat time on a grippy lot before hand if you can.

Disclaimer- I have yet to go to a national event and prove myself so consider anything I say wrong and stupid until I do so. Being a college "kid" makes it hard to have the fund and time to make it to many of them and locally my job requires I work every other weekend which give me limited testing time. Hopfully a job change in the next 6 months and getting out of school within the next two years will change that. I'm getting really tired of working on sundays that I could be racing.