Originally Posted by IntegraR0064

That's on an AP1 though right? And on dunlops? I think rear toe is one place where the AP1 and AP2 differ. You didn't run anywhere near that much when you had the AP2 right?

Originally Posted by Random1

Gaining toe out as you lower your car makes sense. If you keep lowering it eventually you may get toe in.

I could not find a rear toe curve plot, so I threw this together to help illustrate. The effect of this is similar for AP2s but the ride height will be different because they off set the control arm attachment point where it attaches to the hub.

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The figure below attempts to illustrate the effect of rear control arm articulation on rear toe. The inner end of the control arm is attached to a fixed pivot point on the sub-frame. The outer end is attached to the front of the rear hub. As the control arm swings the hub end moves in an arc. The effect of the arc on the toe is all relative to the starting position. The static stock ride height places the control arm below horizontal. As the suspension compresses it pushes the front of the hub out (toe out). As the suspension rebounds it causes toe in. If the control arm goes above horizontal then toe in will occur.

If the car is lowered and the static ride height places the control link above horizontal the compression will cause toe in and rebound will cause toe out. The overall affect is opposite of what happens at the stock ride height.



Here's a photo of the rear control arm with the ride height set to 12.5" from hub center to metal fender edge. As you can see it's above horizontal. Any compression of the suspension from this point (like when loaded in a turn) will cause toe in to occur. Provided your driving is smooth (i.e. don't have sudden throttle lift mid corner) then the toe in (rather then toe out) makes the back end more stable. This setup up also slows down the initial corner turn in which also helps reduce the chance of over steer.



To achieve such a low ride height (12.5") you will need really short rear shock bodies and appropriate spring rates! At this point my suspension dances around the end of a shortened bump stop under most conditions (no nasty bumps).

EDIT
One more thought regarding the static toe setting... you can start with less static toe, but beware that under braking this could cause toe out resulting in an unstable (squirrely) back end.

Originally Posted by bronxbomber252

I am at -2.2 in the rear, with no aftermarket alignment help in the rear... It just went there no problem on the rack...

Originally Posted by josh7owens

...plus I'd still have to buy the front lower a-arms because of the caster bushing can't be replaced...

Originally Posted by josh7owens

Wierd, I'm debating buying all new A-arms over the winter but it's $1569.18! I

Originally Posted by josh7owens

Wierd, I'm debating buying all new A-arms over the winter but it's $1569.18! I prolly should just get the poly bushings but I hear some people dont like them because the deform over time which causes play in the bushing. Bushings are in the $600 range but requires alot of work to install them plus I'd still have to buy the front lower a-arms because of the caster bushing can't be replaced. Which are $252 each, totaling $1052 after bushings.

A couple of my eccentrics are very hard to turn but they are at mininum on the back eccentric and we used the front eccentric to get the toe I wanted in th rear. Sucks we ended up at 2.4X in the rear.

I'll prolly order the spc ones unless someone links me to rear upper A-arm offset bushings.