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S2000 STR prep resource

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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 09:50 AM
  #4521  
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Yea my fronts have 3/32 and my rears are at/past the wear bars. Maybe that's part of my handing issues
Old Aug 23, 2011 | 11:11 AM
  #4522  
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Originally Posted by imstimpy
The 200+ run Hankooks, nearly to the wear bars, were causing some undesired tendencies at the last event. Those tendencies were not present on the Dunlops. I think the Dunlops have a few fewer runs, most of them at lower ambient temperatures, but they have worn much more evenly. Where the Hankooks wore the outer shoulders (regardless of camber), the Dunlops wore the insides. At 95*F ambient, the Dunlops never exceeded 140*F pyro.
I've had the same experience with worn Hankooks and worn Dunlops. The Kooks seem to drop off much more than the Dunlops as they reach the end of their life and cause all kinds of erratic handling behavior. The Dunlops, on the other hand, do not drop off as dramatically and maintain a decent feel even when taken past the wear bars.
Old Sep 4, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #4523  
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anyone know where I can get adjustable endlinks for the rear sway bar?

thanks,
josh
Old Sep 4, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #4524  
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Originally Posted by josh7owens
anyone know where I can get adjustable endlinks for the rear sway bar?

thanks,
josh
Well I know Bill Gendron mentioned he would sell a rear link similar to the gendron front links for $75 each (that was last year so not sure if the price is still the same).
Old Sep 4, 2011 | 06:02 PM
  #4525  
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thanks, alittle prices though
Old Sep 4, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #4526  
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Josh, the going rate for adjustable endlinks from McCaster Carr is under $100 for both.
Old Sep 4, 2011 | 07:21 PM
  #4527  
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that would sound better but I'll have to find my own part numbers that will work. Unless they've been posted somewhere.



I've been kind of wanting to buy a CR next season but insurance cost have made me question it. Plus the fact 3 out of 5 top finishes are AP1's. Hopefully we get this ECU rule change and I'll be very excited with my AP1.

I just made a spead sheet of everything I need to do over the winter for next season. It's sad that it totals over 80% of what the car is worth. Funny thing is I'm not considering any labor either. (I get free labor)

Big ticket Items

- $840 polly bushings and new front lower arms or $1500 for all new arms
- $630 rebuild 1 and second gear (new gear sets)
- +/- $1000 to rebuild rear shocks and cut the shock bodys down alittle. (new springs) they are "sweating", (check my other thread)
- $452 2 new oxy sensors (145k, they need it)
- $560 set of kooks
- $460 set of cont DW (225/50/16)

Other stuff
- clutch/slave/master
- cam chain tensioner
- 3 more wheel bearings
- water pump
- softtop striker and latches (they are way wore out)
- soft top (had a patched hole for almost a year)
- bore out my other rear AP1 wheels to fit the front to use with the DW's as rain tires and DDing tires

plus other random crap

I figure if I'm gonna keep the car and drive to events next year I should invest some money in it and not risk any breakage. I was going to buy a cheap DD this season but held out. Next year I'm going to have to.
Old Sep 4, 2011 | 07:49 PM
  #4528  
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Josh, For maintenance, check with the part out guys on here. You will save a ton. I have gone though plenty of parts and never spent close to those estimates. Shop around, get to know some of the builders, tuners, and parts manufacturers. The s2000 community is a small as you want it to be.

I think anyone who sets out to buy a CR just for STR is wasting money. I should know. If you keep chasing after that perfect setup and never get much seat time with a particular setup, you are at a big disadvantage against those who do.

Great that you are maintaining your car. I think you are now realizing that reliability and quality are much more important in the long run rather than that "perfect" setup that we all bench race about. Once the major components of your setup is there, do yourself a favor and just drive it for a while. You need to make youself drive around your setup because its never going to be perfectly suited for any course no matter how hard you try to toy with it.

I think we need to reiterate that blaming your setup is only going to be recieved as making excuses. I didn't like my setup at Nationals, but I promise a better driver could have done more with our car. I'm the bonehead that chose the settings anyways. Even in my situation, I'm much better off making very small changes and documenting them while getting as much seat time and critisism as possible.

-Marc
Old Sep 4, 2011 | 08:12 PM
  #4529  
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Yea seat time, seat time and more seat time is the name of the game next year. I'm just going to set-up the car and drive next year. Sucks I have to send off my shocks again though. not making excuses, just listing winter plans.

random1- Yea, thats the plan for next year. I'm not changing cars but I do really want that ECU rule to go through. Insurance for me now is $93 a month for full coverage, if I got a CR it would bump to $176. I'll pass on that. I like all my paycheck money to be "free" money. No payments, no bills, no worries.
Old Sep 4, 2011 | 08:15 PM
  #4530  
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Josh, you will regret changing cars.

The only difference between me and the top drivers in STR is driving skill and experience. Get your car to a place that you can drive consistently and work on seat time. I can't emphasize enough how important seat time in a car that does not change between events.

I only had two events in my current setup and my times at Nats showed.



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