Does anyone know what make of exhaust was on Geoff Walker's car?

 

I am almost positive it is a 60mm J's racing exhaust. I don't know which one though.

 

I think it's a good idea to have people at least have to submit a setup in order to view the spreadsheet - it'll motivate people to do so. It doesn't necessarily have to be a good setup. And if they're just starting out, they can say that and get access but it's sort of expected that they update it once they get something good going.

I think another important thing would be to have, as part of submitting a setup, a field for how well sorted they think it is (Maybe "Great", "Almost there", and "Not good" or something similar) for quick filtering of which setups work and which don't. And finally, having people maybe describe in a sentence or something what they feel strengths and weaknesses are. Something like "very fast setup but can get loose in slaloms" or "Easy to drive but understeer in tight sweepers", "Good all around but destroys fender liner clips", etc.

Obviously all the discussion will still take place here, so I don't think that's an issue either.


Thanks Colin, it is really interesting seeing the wide variation in setups.

Couple questions for anyone who can answer:
1) Has everyone that posted a setup from nationals had the stock differential? Robert Thorne has the Giken right, and did Annie Bauer end up keeping her Giken working long enough to make it through nationals or no?
2) Do Moton Clubsports have a standard valving? Is there somewhere I can find a dyno plot of it?

 

Thorne and I had an OS Giken that hasn't had any issues yet. Annie was running the stock Torsen since her new Giken blew up again before the pro on practice starts. Not sure who else had a Giken. I updated my post to add the OS Giken.

 

I think the spead sheet would be good, I've added my set-up to it and hope alot of others do to. Once we have a FAQ for STR it would be a great resource for everyone, especially begainers. I agree that there should be somthing asking how figured out it the car is and if it's good for one type of course verus another. Maybe even a driver style question.

If we don't have something like this we are going to have people asking for set-up advice for years to come, with access to this the people can get on there and see what works and make a decision on a set-up to start with basied on driving style and type of course they normally run.

For example a couple weeks ago I asked matt about his set-up, we went back and forth for 10 post or so (almost a whole page), with a resource like this I can just click on the spread sheet and say "hey heres matts newest set-up and this is what he has to say about it."


If we can get all the top STR guys to do this along with slow asses like me people could really benfit from it. Another example, I was debating buying spc ball joints for the rear to get less camber a few weeks ago but according to everyones nationals set-up I really just need more toe in.

I think it would be great for everyone.

 

I added a spot for differential, and the rate your setup from 1-5 box to the template. So anyone that already filled it out maybe add that stuff. I'll get my info added later today.

 

Melchior's AP1 has a stock diff (for now)

Setup related:

Throughout the season we have found that increasing roll stiffness has made the car not handle/feel as good for either driver. When we went to a solid 1.25" element and the stock AP1 MY00 bar, the car was very well balanced, but neither end of the car was ever "planted" (subjective). It felt like you could overdrive the front or the rear very easily. When we went down in roll stiffness and up in spring rate to keep the total roll rate close, the car got more driveable, and more driveable on varying surfaces. Total grip seemed to go up as well, but I don't have any data to back this up.

On our local asphalt lots, the Hankooks are faster than the Dunlops. Every time. As I mentioned in the Nats thread, even when shaved, they do seem to need a scrubbing or heat cycle to really come in. The set that Mark and Nick drove on at Nats have 150+ runs and were started full tread. I would shave them to 5 or 6/32 just to get rid of the "crown" that is molded into the tires (they start with approx 10/32" in the center and 5-6/32" on the shoulders.)

Interesting to hear that the Dunlops were faster on the practice course. That Lincoln concrete always has a trick up its sleeve. I think we will be doing more at Lincoln next season pre-Nats to try to get more seat time and tuning done at low elevation and on the Nats surface. It really is a trip gaining 20-25% more torque and HP (or as the people who went to the Vail tour 2 years ago know, losing 30%+)

 

Has anybody tried the Toyo R1R on the S2000? Looking at Nationals results the Toyo owns ST and STS but very few people in other classes run them.

For the people that have tried them what did you think? I am thinking about using them for rain and cooler events, but not sure if I should just stick with the Dunlop star specs.

 

It has been my understanding that they do not work as well on the heavier cars like ours compared to the featherweight ST/STS cars. However, supposedly they are great at the pro's for launches, but I have no personal experience with them.

 

See, it's interesting that I have the opposite observation and I have been running Dunlops exclusively. Perhaps the Kooks don't enjoy the fast loading of a big bar set up? It's annoying comparing set ups now that I've developed the car on Dunlops due to the Kook shortage. I just can't imagining having to soften the roll rates to accomodate a tire that is sloppier than what I'm running currently. Right now, my car is predictable and easy to drive. ugh...