S2000 STR prep resource
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 2
Has anybody tried the Toyo R1R on the S2000? Looking at Nationals results the Toyo owns ST and STS but very few people in other classes run them.
For the people that have tried them what did you think? I am thinking about using them for rain and cooler events, but not sure if I should just stick with the Dunlop star specs.
For the people that have tried them what did you think? I am thinking about using them for rain and cooler events, but not sure if I should just stick with the Dunlop star specs.
-Marc
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Well if it's easy to drive, predictable, and fast (based on nats results). Maybe suspension alone is not the answer for speed at the moment. Perhaps more power, a differential to put down the power (which might result in a new setup to work with the diff) or added lightness is the current step?
Also it makes sense to me that the kooks may not like the massive (ie.. gendron 1.375) front bar on full stiff. With their softer sidewalls it seems reasonable to figure that the faster loading of the tire makes the tire deform faster. Kind of in the same way that the cars running kooks seem to employ more camber then cars on Dunlops.
Also it makes sense to me that the kooks may not like the massive (ie.. gendron 1.375) front bar on full stiff. With their softer sidewalls it seems reasonable to figure that the faster loading of the tire makes the tire deform faster. Kind of in the same way that the cars running kooks seem to employ more camber then cars on Dunlops.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 570
Likes: 16
Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker' timestamp='1315345403' post='20948598
Melchior's AP1 has a stock diff (for now)
Setup related:
Throughout the season we have found that increasing roll stiffness has made the car not handle/feel as good for either driver. When we went to a solid 1.25" element and the stock AP1 MY00 bar, the car was very well balanced, but neither end of the car was ever "planted" (subjective). It felt like you could overdrive the front or the rear very easily. When we went down in roll stiffness and up in spring rate to keep the total roll rate close, the car got more driveable, and more driveable on varying surfaces. Total grip seemed to go up as well, but I don't have any data to back this up.
Setup related:
Throughout the season we have found that increasing roll stiffness has made the car not handle/feel as good for either driver. When we went to a solid 1.25" element and the stock AP1 MY00 bar, the car was very well balanced, but neither end of the car was ever "planted" (subjective). It felt like you could overdrive the front or the rear very easily. When we went down in roll stiffness and up in spring rate to keep the total roll rate close, the car got more driveable, and more driveable on varying surfaces. Total grip seemed to go up as well, but I don't have any data to back this up.
Here is my setup:
Settings (F/R) Me (MY06)
Shocks Moton Clubsports
Compression 4/3 @185psi
Rebound 3/4
Anti-roll bars Gendron bearing 1.25"x0.25" @6/stock
Ride-height 13.0"/12.9"
Springs 850#/700#, 7"x2.5" + helpers
Toe 0"/0.25"
Camber -2.6*/-2.4*
Tires 255 Hankooks @36psi OR 255 Dunlops @36psi
Differential stock
Power intake stock, exhaust T1R 70-R-EM SS, 37805-PZX-A080-M1-COBB_R8500_V5500_VEH_IH.hex
I do have a spreadsheet with a few other setups, including a lot of math, but others' setups are helter-skelter since very few post all of their setup. I can share it if anybody is interested. I'm sure it will be rapidly reproduced with people sharing them within the thread.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Hey guys, I've been reading through as much as I can for this thread but I have some questions. I've noticed that as far as alignment goes, seems like you guys don't generally run any toe-out in front but some toe-in for the rear. Any reason not to run toe-out in front? For general alignments on RWD cars I've seen toe-out to be a good thing to help turn-in. Forgive me for such a noob question, but I am curious as to why? I'm not new to autoxing but I am new to STR prepping, been doing a lot of research as to how to set up my S. Thanks!
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 570
Likes: 16
[i]For Nationals we tried the following. (If not listed, its stock)
-Ohlins TTX Shocks on 700lb front/500lb rear springs. Shocks initially set in the middle of 25 clicks(12/12, 12/12) We tried adjusting but induced some push.
-Rear swaybar removed
-Gendron 1.375 Front Sway set at 3/6
From here, We decided to make the following changes, toss this setup, and start over...
2. Lower the rear ride height slightly. I have no height #s, but we were higher than most at Nationals. Initially, we lowered the rear as much as the shocks would allow, but its still too high. We set the height of the front higher to compensate. To lower more, we have to modify the top perch of the shocks to allow for more suspension travel. We may have to work with the shop we bought them from on this as they already offered.
3. Increase the front spring rates. We haven't made a final decision on a number, but looking at the pictures from Nationals, the front has way too much nose diving going on.
-Marc
-Ohlins TTX Shocks on 700lb front/500lb rear springs. Shocks initially set in the middle of 25 clicks(12/12, 12/12) We tried adjusting but induced some push.
-Rear swaybar removed
-Gendron 1.375 Front Sway set at 3/6
From here, We decided to make the following changes, toss this setup, and start over...
2. Lower the rear ride height slightly. I have no height #s, but we were higher than most at Nationals. Initially, we lowered the rear as much as the shocks would allow, but its still too high. We set the height of the front higher to compensate. To lower more, we have to modify the top perch of the shocks to allow for more suspension travel. We may have to work with the shop we bought them from on this as they already offered.
3. Increase the front spring rates. We haven't made a final decision on a number, but looking at the pictures from Nationals, the front has way too much nose diving going on.
-Marc
Nose dive can come from many factors, including: front spring rate, front compression, rear rebound, ride height, and rake. You have a lot of front roll bias and little rear so I'm not sure a front-only spring change is the direction you'd want to go. I'm not sure I've felt like my car has experienced too much nose dive at any rates I've run including 700lb front. Just trying to provide some more options. Forgive me if you have thought about all of this already.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 616
Likes: 1
From: McKinney, TX
Originally Posted by rjones' timestamp='1315406544' post='20950583
Has anybody tried the Toyo R1R on the S2000? Looking at Nationals results the Toyo owns ST and STS but very few people in other classes run them.
For the people that have tried them what did you think? I am thinking about using them for rain and cooler events, but not sure if I should just stick with the Dunlop star specs.
For the people that have tried them what did you think? I am thinking about using them for rain and cooler events, but not sure if I should just stick with the Dunlop star specs.
-Marc
Thanks 762 and Sirbunz. What you guys said goes along with what I thought. Looks like it's Dunlop's for rain, and cool weather unless someone has something good to say about the Toyo's.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,531
Likes: 3
From: Tucson
Originally Posted by glagola1' timestamp='1315418546' post='20951213
Generally, the S2000 turns in like a mofo so there isn't much to be gained from toe out and too much toe out in front can cause push at mid corner.
It's fun to watch someone drive an S2000 for the first time and see them make two turns for the first several. The first turn ends up to early, then correct and then turn a second time to get around the cone. Otherwise they hit a bunch of cones.
Rear toe is really a personal preference and used to control how loose the car is in general.