S2000 STR prep resource
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by imstimpy,Jun 13 2010, 06:07 PM
I just completed the first round install of my Motons. Other than no real good place to locate the rear canisters, I think everything went well.
I measured the factory ride height as follows:
LF 35.9cm RF 36.0cm
LR 36.9cm RR 37.3cm
First of all, is the RR typically off by a few mm from the factory? I didn't have a chance to put the car on the scales to check balance.
Other than a thread a lot of gross mis-information, I haven't found much on rake. I lowered the car equally'ish, front and rear.
Initial Moton ride-height:
LF 35.0 cm RF 35.0cm
LR 36.5cm RR 36.4cm
Does rake affect transitional stability much on S2000s? I can fine tune a BMW with rear ride height but a Subaru I cannot. My prior experience tells me I want the rear lowered at least as much as the front, if not more.
If anybody is curious, I'm starting at 700F/550R with no rear bar. I won't have any idea what I'll have to change until the 27th.
I measured the factory ride height as follows:
LF 35.9cm RF 36.0cm
LR 36.9cm RR 37.3cm
First of all, is the RR typically off by a few mm from the factory? I didn't have a chance to put the car on the scales to check balance.
Other than a thread a lot of gross mis-information, I haven't found much on rake. I lowered the car equally'ish, front and rear.
Initial Moton ride-height:
LF 35.0 cm RF 35.0cm
LR 36.5cm RR 36.4cm
Does rake affect transitional stability much on S2000s? I can fine tune a BMW with rear ride height but a Subaru I cannot. My prior experience tells me I want the rear lowered at least as much as the front, if not more.
If anybody is curious, I'm starting at 700F/550R with no rear bar. I won't have any idea what I'll have to change until the 27th.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 1
From: AZ
Originally Posted by imstimpy,Jun 13 2010, 08:07 PM
Does rake affect transitional stability much on S2000s?
Being off by, i'm guessing here, by more than a 1/2 inch or so, may make your car un-drivable. I did this the first time I put my coil overs on. I had no frame of reference so I just put them on and drove around. at one point with the front raised up too high, I could barely get the car to turn with out understeering.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by sirbunz,Jun 13 2010, 06:48 PM
A true reference point. The scales seemed a tad bit on the heave side, but same scales, same day. Comparing weights outside of this isn't worth worrying about. Did Jadrice or any other BS guy weigh theirs? Any of the STR guys? Dr Wetzel's CR was around 2800 (OEM wheels, full exhaust, AC/Radio model).
I was on lightweight wheels (TR/Kosei) on (4) 275/40/17 A6s, Corey's Exhaust mod, and full/topped off fuel tank. My car is usually around the upper mid-high 2600 mark in B-Stock trim.
Keith, were you on 245s? If so, thats worth 12lbs
Hate to see you leave BS, but will see you soon enough in STR.
BTW, I ran 1/2 tank at the Blytheville NT on day 1 by accident. It was all 2nd gear without any shifting. No fuel starve. Seems the 1st gear downshifting is a major factor in fuel starving.
I was on lightweight wheels (TR/Kosei) on (4) 275/40/17 A6s, Corey's Exhaust mod, and full/topped off fuel tank. My car is usually around the upper mid-high 2600 mark in B-Stock trim.
Keith, were you on 245s? If so, thats worth 12lbs
Hate to see you leave BS, but will see you soon enough in STR.BTW, I ran 1/2 tank at the Blytheville NT on day 1 by accident. It was all 2nd gear without any shifting. No fuel starve. Seems the 1st gear downshifting is a major factor in fuel starving.
My first event in STR was yesterday. 255 Hankooks rule! I ran under 1/2 tank with no fuel starve as well with a very bumpy back section and one pretty good left hand sweeper. The new spring rates worked out great. Can't wait for DC this weekend!
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
At one point I found a recommendation from the track guys to run the rear a quarter inch higher than the front. Thats what I've been doing from the get go and have never had a reason to change it. Right now my ride heights are something like 12.5"/12.75" from center of hub to fender. Thats really low and I wouldn't recommend it unless you have short body shocks, and more than 2.5deg of front camber or you'll be eating front fender liners.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by TheNick,Jun 14 2010, 05:33 AM
At one point I found a recommendation from the track guys to run the rear a quarter inch higher than the front. Thats what I've been doing from the get go and have never had a reason to change it. Right now my ride heights are something like 12.5"/12.75" from center of hub to fender. Thats really low and I wouldn't recommend it unless you have short body shocks, and more than 2.5deg of front camber or you'll be eating front fender liners.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by keifla123,Jun 14 2010, 09:00 AM
I am at 13"/13.25" from the center of the hub to the fender. I have about 2 inches of travel before the bump stops on my shocks. I wouldn't lower the car anymore right now. I am expecting my camber adjusters to come in this week for the front so I can get that much needed extra front camber.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 570
Likes: 16
Originally Posted by robinson,Jun 13 2010, 07:48 PM
The corner balance is going to determine the rake of the car. Changing the rake after a corner balance will screw with the balance which means you will have more understeer or oversteer depending on what end of the car gets changed.
Rake affects dynamic weight transfer. Think of it as front and rear roll-center biasing and weight transfer uphill or downhill.
If you have one corner way out then the car may turn right better than left. If the rake is way out, the car may understeer or oversteer or snap oversteer. The difference is you can see the corner on the scales; you cannot see the rake on the scales.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
Don't forget that adjusting ride height to change rake will probably have a greater effect on alignment than static roll center location. Especially in the case of the S2000.
When I had my Koni's and the circle track coil sleeves - raising/lowering two turns on the perch turned out something like 1/8-1/4" of ride height - a negligible change in camber and around 1/16" change in toe per side.
When I had my Koni's and the circle track coil sleeves - raising/lowering two turns on the perch turned out something like 1/8-1/4" of ride height - a negligible change in camber and around 1/16" change in toe per side.