WayttH


I will recive in a few weeks a set of Project Mu SCR-Pro rotors, 2 piece rotors same size as OEM a much lighter than OEM


If you are interersted Shall I contact you?

 

Ok...I don't know things for sure about this motor but this is what I have been told. What makes sense to me. And what I'd believe to be true.

Stock 2.0L you dont really want to rev much higher then 9000...my soft cut limiter is set to 9050. While I probably could go to 9200-9300 the problem lies within the valve springs primarily, and with that the retainers as well. The springs start to not be strong enough to full close the valves and the retainers can't really take the stress. While you could run the motor this high, it would just shorten the life.

Once you upgrade the head and use stronger springs and titanium retainers, etc. You no longer have to worry about valves floating, or retainers failing and a valve dropping into the engine. So you think about the bottom end. On the 2.0L its fine, nothing to worry about at only 9400-9500, and like I mentioned possibly 9600. The internals are forged which greatly helps, and the other factor has to do with the bore x stroke...mainly the stroke and angles that the rods are at etc. The 2.0L is very balanced, reasoning why honda revs it to 8900 or 9000 or whatever it is. The 2.2L isn't as balanced and the problem with them is rod fatigue. Like mentioned piston speed in the 2.2L at 8000 is about what the speed is in the 2.0L at 9000. While the actual pistons aren't under too much more stress the rods are under more simply do the the way in which they move. Using stronger rods is normally the best way to get more rpm out of the 2.2

Now, I would assume that if the head could handle it and stronger rods were used on the 2.0 you might be able to go past 10000 and this was something I was thinking of doing. But I think that a 2.2 reving to 9000 will probably bring the most power out of the two.

I don't know about valve sizing...thats something I'll talk to alaniz about when I finally get to that point.
ITBs while they are cool, I'm excited about this new intake manifold that may be coming on the market and that I should hopefully be testing in the next week or two.

And to lighten my car, I've done less then you...maybe you weighed in with a full tank where as I used about 7/16's of a tank or about 6.5 gallons out so add 39lbs to my 2670...2709 with a full tank. All I've done is: lightweight battery, lightweight flywheel, spare/tools removed, trunk interior plastics removed, exhaust/testpipe, intake. Thats really everything. But it all adds up, pretty quick 100lbs less then stock. I also plan for HT with SfT removal, header, seats, wheels, suspension, brakes, and maybe CF parts to reduce the weight further.

Anyway thats my take on things, but honestly...not to many people have tried to build the motor N/A and some that have disappeared from the boards...I've tried to contact them. We are somewhat guinea pigs in what we are trying to do. Race teams have done it, but they don't release all their info to the public. We are SOME of the first people to have this goal and be shooting for it and keeping the car a daily driver

 

NA IS BEST!

 

Europe - I have Stoptech BBK where the rotors wont work, but PM Justin (above my post) as he might be interested.

Silver - Makes total sense to me. I'll see what I can get for newer, stronger, lighter rods, just to do it all at once and to be "bulletproof" and do 9500rpm safely. I definitely can't afford to make it a 2.2L though. Just the crank is required, and that's $1800 right?? We are guinea pigs, that's for sure. Sadly, I think I'll be the one testing out compression and daily drivability. Grrr.

Version - RICE IS BEST!

 

IMAGINE THE POWER YOU'LL MAKE ON RACE GAS! I MIGHT BUMP COMOPRESSION WITH A SPOOM HG, BUT I WILL LET YOU (WYATT) PUSH THE LIMITS OF PUMP GAS. HAHAHHA! ITS A GOOD THING I LIVE 5 MINS AWAY FROM YOU, I GET SO SEE FOR MYSELF THE RESULTS! GOOD LUCK BRA!

 

you are on a YELLING spree

and I don't know how much it is for the 2.2L crank...I'm probably just going to pull it out of a wrecked S2k from a junkyard when I want to rebuild my engine, buy new rods, look into getting new pistons...maybe the JDM ones. Get it all blueprinted/balanced and put it in...not really TOO hard and probably not too expensive. Just need to find a wrecked AP2 but then again, thats quite a ways down the road so who knows.

And Wyatt, I forget, what are you tuning with. Because really with pump gas as long as you are not knocking then the higher compression is fine...you just need to be running some sort of data logger to confirm that your aren't knocking. If you do...try adding a little more fuel, if that doesn't cut it, put the fuel back in and take out a degree of timing...and if that doesn't do it enrichen the fuel again. You really shouldn't see that much knock, so it shouldn't take much to get rid of it.

 

AEM EMS.

Version - damn you. stretch your legs with me buddy!!!
I wouldnt recommend the Spoon HG alone. It might add 4whp, but imagine the labor involved, hahaha.... Only if you're breaking open the head anyway would I justify it. But who knows, maybe we can do it some weekend!

 

PARTS COMPUTER IS STUCK ON CAPS. SORRY. CAP=AT WORK

 

AT WORK = IM SORRY.

 

when i go down to vancouver in march i plan on pulling running on race gas. it will be interesting to see how much rwhp that adds.


wyatt, i put my 10k's in today, bright....as.....hell.....