Well, here is the scan of it...very linear hp...the spikes you see in the Torque curve have to do with the natural resonance frequency of the intake...basically where/when the sound waves line up are best for the airflow.

 

Not too bring this thread back from the dead, but it seems most appropriate here.
I was going to go Lovefab or SC, but now I have decided to stick with NA.
Even if it becomes more expensive in the long run, or less powerful, I like the sound of it.

Here is the list of mods I have (not yet complete of course), so this will be my final list. I am hoping for a HP prediction from those experienced with similar (doubt there are any exact) setups.

Moving from the Intake > Engine > Exhaust (someone organized?):

Garage Defend Snorkel
K&N High Flow Filter
CF Heat Shield (Ztec Type)
ProFlow 70mm Throttle Body
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Supertech Oversized Valves (not sure which size: .5mm-1mm)
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Alaniz Bronze Valve Guides, Valve Seats
Alaniz High-Lift Valve Springs
<complete Port/Polish head>
J's Racing 11.7:1 Pistons
Spoon Head Gasket (11.9:1 final compression)
J's Racing Header
T1r 70r (with 70mm test pipe)
AEM Engine Management (tuned by TorqueFreaks)
Cusco Lightweight Flywheel

Q: Would RC 440cc Injectors be necessary or help at all?
Q: Would Cunningham lightweight forged connecting rods help at all or be necessary?

What would your power predictions be? Assuming it had a strong tune...
11.9:1 compression, P & P head, the normal do-dads...
I'm hoping for 245whp@9200 rpm on a Dynojet. Is this ridiculous or feasible?

Thanks a lot.

 

i might as well update:

getting ever closer to the 230 number. i will be able to give an exact number here in a few months. i had tuned my vfac on a dyna-pack. the car is dailed in to about 13.4/1 afr. the tuner said that his dyno reads low (at 218rwhp) and that on anyother dyno i would be mid 220's easy. once i dyno on the dyno that i baselined on, i will be able to give you guys and exact number.

since being tuned i notice that the car doesnt hit VTEC as hard, but it does pull from 4500 to redline VERY hard. my new sub-goal is to hit 225 without header, TB or flywheel. i predict with header, TB, i will smash the 230 mark.....by 2 hp. hahahahaha! lets get this thread going again! NA IS BEST!!

 

whats so great with the hondata gasket besides the compression raise???

-Mike Kim

 

Hondata gasket doesnt raise compression. It acts as an insulator to the incoming air through the intake manifold so it doesnt heat up as much (colder air = more per space = more power). The Spoon gasket is the thinner head gasket that adds ".2 compression" increase.

Louie - we'll be a tag-team set of some quick NA s2s!!! All you have left for 225 is the snorkel and retune, right?

 

i hope that i am very close to 225 now, but most likely not. i think i am going to need a header to get to 225 if not more.

 

Good call. Perhaps. Cross fingers for a good dyno.
Just get the snorkel, change your oil, go on a cold day. That shit can even add up if you're being nit-picky on a 1hp or 2.

I think I'll just go with Arias 11.5:1 pistons and the head gasket. I don't want the compression TOO high to require sleeves or connecting rods. I am not trying to explore any limits here. But I plan on a full P&P of the head, 70mm TB, Flywheel, full 70mm exhaust, AEM EMS tuning, etc.
I hope to be over 240whp for sure... Shit...

Louie, you dont want me running circles around you, do ya? Shutup and go get some 4.56s!!!!!!!!! I'm trying to get down to 2700lbs (at 2750 now), and with my 4.44s, we'll be set to own PACNW muahahahaha Ben....

 

hmm...maybe I should go out to 13.4:1 I talked to Shawn and he said I'm around 12.7-13.0 as far as AFR tune...I asked because I was showing around that on the UEGO gauge while doing pulls. However by being slightly richer, a little more timing was added instead of less fuel. I might go and try doing some of my own pulls and see if I can add a degree or so of more timing and maybe lean it out another point or two on the A/F...which theoretically would add a few good hp all together...maybe I can be at 230whp already!

But then...the way its tuned right now I can safely beat on it all day everyday without having to worry...somewhat conservative...since a few more hp will only help wear the engine out quicker?

 

You have similar ideas as me...eventually plan for:

J's 70rr
J's Header
Alaniz Head (basically everything you mentioned, titanium retainers/springs, bronze guides, oversized valves thinking 1mm, P&P)
Hoping to prototype Full Race Intake Manifold
Either Proflow 70mm or J's 66mm TB (let me know how the proflow works out)
Keeping the AEM V1
Hondata Intake Mani gasket
Mugen Cooling Mods
EMS
after headwork I'll probably rev to 9300-9600

Then, when the time comes work on the bottom end. Probably go for 2.2L and stronger rods to keep it reving to at least 9100, and bump the compression up to 11.7:1 or 12.0:1

I'm looking to make over 250whp N/A...I also think it is VERY possible. I'm already halfway there and don't have the real important stuff yet. I think just upgrading to J's header and exhaust I will see a 7-10hp jump, and then with a intake manifold and TB probably at least 5-7 there. So...on the low side I'd be near 237whp without touching the head and on the high side I'd be at 242hp...10hp MIGHT be found through head work, but if not it will easily be surpassed after some bottom end work is done.

Ohh...and I'm at 2670lbs as I sit...50/50 balance with me in the car 51/49 without me

 

Silver - I was waiting for your reply, and glad you did.
So with the headwork I mentioned (similar to yours), I should be able to do 9300-9400 rpm safely?
I don't think I'll ever go over 2.0L...
But I will do the head work, the other goodies, and for the lower end just raise the compression to 11.7:1.
Would I need some stronger connecting rods do you think? Aren't the standard internals forged steel? Or would I be good to go with the built top end, I/H/E/Fly, and new pistons? Reving to 9300rpm is mostly capable with upgraded headwork, but would lightweight connecting rods be needed as well?? I have confidence TorqueFreaks' tuning, but I am not sure about the limits of the standard internals (havent researched enough yet). Hopefully I don't need to add more to the bottom end.
Best of luck to ALL N/A reachers!!!!!!

Also, the first half is ALWAYS easier than the second half! But I agree, I think you can easily do it.
Also, what have you done to lighten your car?
To lighten mine:
Seats, Hardtop (minus softop), exhaust, flywheel, soon-to-be-header, battery, wheels, coilovers (surprised on weight difference), removed spare/tools. To add weight is only my small 8'' sub and box. I think that puts me around 2750.