Stock is 11.0:1 so if the spoon adds .2 then you'd have 11.2:1 and at .3 its obviously 11.3:1

You could get another .4 bump and go up to 11.7 by shaving the head, but it would be enough shaving to consider whether or not you wanted that. The best way to do it is the head gasket and the pistons. My thought is just get the J's or Toda pistons (if you want Toda Cams) which bump you up to 11.7 already and then get the Spoon gasket and your at 12.0:1 which is just high enough for street

This is something I am thinking about doing, and then going with the TODA Spec C cams which would obviously also require cam pulleys and valve springs, but all the head work would get done at the same time. My dilema is whether I go with a stroker 2.2L for extra torque but with stronger rods and continue reving to 9000. Or stay 2.0L (little cheaper) and rev it to 10000?

 

I remember seeing these on some website, but I believe they only apply to the F20C motor....besides I do not wish to mess with the bottom end unless I decide to have it fuilly built with 13+ compression. This obviously is something I am not planning anytime soon.

I thought stock compression for the S was 11.1.1, but if it's 11.0.1 then spoon gasket would get it to 11.4.1 because so far every site selling it lists it to add .3 compression. Not a bad mod if you ask me considering it's not the only mod your doing while taking apart the head. Also doesn't seem high enough to need higher octane fuel although it wouldn't hurt to have it.

 

I believe this also is for the F20C, right?

 

11.7:1 JDM pistons and Spoon Gasket would be 11.9:1, no?

 

to get the 230whp wont be easier get a head prepared, plus an AEM EMS tunned?

 

How much hp does 12 - 13 compression with I/H/E ecu tb etc. make?

 

most of us from the beginning of the thread are already at or pretty close to the 230whp mark...now we are looking for more, like 250+ all N/A and daily driveable

 

no idea....once you go too high above 12:1 compression though, your not going to see much of an advantage at all unless you are using 98+ octane fuel. But what most of us are hoping for in this thread with 70mm exhausts, probably all J's header, a pick your poison intake, EMS, 70mm TB, and 12.0:1. I wouldn't look to much higher than 240whp. Add headwork, cams, intake manifold, and more RPM's and you should be over the 250 mark and still be pretty comfy to drive everyday

 

I mean Real HP, Dynapack no dynojet, Turbo_pwr has the best I/E/H combos, ITB, Toda Head, AEM EMS and he got 236 whp......


I do not think that with basic bolt ons you will reach 230 Whp on a dynojet or Mustang dyno

 

Does anyone know how much head porting will add? I know on B-series head it add a significant gain because there were more room for improvement. I know Alaniz is a good place to get the S2000 head to get ported. I think on his site he charges 2300 for everything for competition port job. I know to hit the 230whp head porting is a must with bolts.

So lets say
J's header - 1200
J's intake - 1100
J's 70RR - 1300
Alaniz head port * competition type * - 2300
AEM Standalone - 1300
Tuning - 500

Total of 7,700 Dollars for gains around 230-240whp.

DAMN that's alot of money. Now consider to put some gears another 400-500 bux.

WOWERZ!