BlownAP, you are correct about day-to-day changes and the need to get baselines. Definitely makes the info more relevant. Folks just need to remember that dyno numbers are just that: dyno numbers. They may or may not be truly representative of real-world performance. This goes for any performance part.

 

BlownAP, since you work for K&N, I need you to do me a favor. Find out if K&N makes filters for the Jenvey ITB kit...particularly, the S2000 kit with 50mm throttles.

 

interesting point skip, BUT, what is then? i mean if dyno #'s are all subjective, and trap speeds are always questioned, what can we use to measure hp?

 

Butt dyno!

 

Trap speeds would be more respectable, IMO

Wildcardtrd, I will have to check for you, I know we make a SWWEEEET filter for our Focus midget that runs ITB's. I will see what ITB's it is running!

 

Thats why I am thankful I have access to a dyno and a Lift, Intakes are easy to swap on and off and get a baseline number for a stock intake, then a aftermarket intake, but a lot of people do NOT have the option to baseline, Then slap on an exhaust, when i have All of my mods together. I am going to baseline stock and throw all my mods on, One by one, and see what each part yields. and tune it after its all bolted on,

that is the ONLY way you can tell for sure EXACTLY how much each part adds. and it would have to be within a couple hours so the temp and humidity dosent change to much, Even tho SAE corrections does that for you.

 

How about resetting ECU after pulls for each mod?

 

The motor seems to make more power the more runs you make, which was clear when I did my first baseline aswell. The ecu adjusts to your driving style, so resetting it before a dyno is not a good idea. Honestly the best thing would be to take up and down the block a few times and go all out. then slap it on the dyno right afterwards.

 

I'm no guru as previously acknowledged, however, it seems to reason that- I'll use intakes for this example- some intakes would be less restrictive by virtue of their static design. An intake at speed(versus an intake with a fan in front of it) might yield much different numbers when compared to another intake, again at speed. I'm guessing the Mugen intake with an accompanying duct in the bumper will yield much better results at speed than it ever would on a dyno.

With that in mind, perhaps the suggestion that trap speeds are a better gauge is valid, albeit very difficult to replicate. The whole thing about my stroker making only 242 rwhp doesn't bother me for this very reason. It in no way validates whether or not the motor is good for my application- track times do. Again, that's even harder to duplicate than a 1/4-mile trap speed. Peak hp isn't going to pulll me out of a turn any faster.

With all of the above being said, the dyno is the most accessible, measurable way to gauge the general state of a motor. I'm guessing I could bolt my oem front wheels on the rear, inflate them to an extremely high psi, zero out my rear camber and increase my hp numbers, but that wouldn't be realistic. Manufacturers and shops alike need numbers. That's what sells. I don't begrudge any of them.

 

Got my car dynoed today on a dynojet down at promotions in VA. 1st pull i did 199 whp 3rd gear pull. 2nd pull i did 202.3 whp 3rd gear pull. 3rd pull was 10 min later in 4th gear (with box top off) i did 215 whp with a drop in k&n filter, berk tp,invidia exhaust, n 4.77s. next month or so im going back hopefully with a single exhaust aem v2 and Vafc II. still debating on whether to get a header or not yet.

My goal is to hit high 12's all motor. I want to lighten the s2 as much as i can and still keep it daily driveable. i agree with ff2skip about intakes. and peak numbers aren't my goal. i dynoed what i expected but i'd like to see around 220whp-225whp