Well mini update for the car today. Going back in for another alignment (thank goodness I get unlimited alignments for a year)

Front ride height was adjusted last event to stop some rubbing so need to make sure the front toe is zeroed out. (We measured it with plates last weekend as we were adjusting it and it changed from 0 to 1/8th in)

Front camber will be as much as possible at the ride height (OEM adjustment only, no camber joints)

Rear toe in will be increased from 3/16ths to 4/16ths
Rear camber will stay at -2.5 degrees

From our time trial last weekend we set up a huge slalom and determined the car needed the front bar to be stiffer to help with transitions. Saner front bar stiffness will be increased from full soft to medium.

Here is one pic from the event.

 

Man I need to move somewhere warmer. I can't even pull the S2000 out there's so much snow.

Anyway, 762, I'm curious what kind of spring rates you're running? Right now I'm trying to decide how much front bar I need so your experience is helpful.

 

762 I think that's too much rear toe in for an AP2. I would go with 1/8 total toe in in the rear and increass the front bar untill it was not to lose.

 

Eh I am basing the toe number on a few peoples notes and setups that I have read and heard etc... That being said it will all be tested.

My setup is Moton Clubsports w/ a Saner front bar
Spring Rates are F 800 R 600

 

You may have been looking at AP1 settings. I think they like to run a lot of rear toe.

I think the main down side to that much toe will be very fast tire ware. With my setup I need to run a lot of front bar to keep from lifting the inside rear (the stock diff stops working when you lift one of the rear tires) and if I ran that much toe with the big front bar the car would plow thru the corners. You may not have that problem.

 

Completely disagree but whatever.

Bar will effect mid-corner, toe will not. If he is looking for more bite when on throttle then yeah, 1/4" of toe in is perfectly fine.

 

For reference, when you ran my car it had 700lb front 600lb rear and the saner on medium with no rear bar.

 

Spot on Nick, car wanted to break loose a touch early. I am pretty determined to make the car setup to where you can roll on the throttle as early as possible, and I will sacrifice in some areas to get there if I have to.

 

A lot of that is in the Torsen diff and will be hard to tune around with the chassis. It will take a lot of patience from your right foot.


Its lockup is not very progressive and when it locks, it locks hard and the car wants to step immediately.

 

Thanks Bryan! That definitely helps. Your car felt really good although I probably would prefer just slightly more front stiffness.

I keep trying to convince myself that maybe I can go with something cheap(er) like a swift front bar with no rear bar and more spring rate stagger than most, but it's seeming like I should probably just suck it up and go with a Gendron. The Saner just seems so heavy, and I'm afraid of the clunking, but I'm definitely considering that too.