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3. Street Touring: Per the STAC, only the inner lip of a fender may be rolled, per 14.2.E. The outer fender contour may not be changed to provide additional tire clearance.
Is it possible to do that? It seems like the fender is going to get pushed out any time the inner lip is rolled, even if it is slight and barely noticeable. ...Or is this meant more for those that intended to flatten out the edge of the fender?
Originally Posted by ALFYonso,Sep 30 2009, 11:20 AM
Is it possible to do that? It seems like the fender is going to get pushed out any time the inner lip is rolled, even if it is slight and barely noticeable. ...Or is this meant more for those that intended to flatten out the edge of the fender?
i'm sure its just to prevent those people who try to flare their fenders and call it a "heavy roll"
Originally Posted by TheNick,Sep 30 2009, 08:07 AM
Thoughts? Per October Fastrack.
I already wrote a letter. I'm not sure its applicable to an OBD2 car. Yeah there are a ton of Greddy/AEM/APEX piggyback units out there to do this and get a decent chunk of power. The problem is that as soon as you assume control of the Injectors and Ignition with the piggyback, you cut the OBD2 feedback loop in the OEM ECU - whether or not the car throws a code is irrelevant. The OBD2 system is not operating as the MFG intended.
Looks like my request was posted as they said they would
As for the OBDII stuff. The piggybacks alter some items but the main features related to emissions are left in tact. This would be no different than a reprogrammed ecu.
Originally Posted by ALFYonso,Sep 30 2009, 02:20 PM
Is it possible to do that? It seems like the fender is going to get pushed out any time the inner lip is rolled, even if it is slight and barely noticeable. ...Or is this meant more for those that intended to flatten out the edge of the fender?
I think its more for people who want to flatten it out which effectively gives you about 1/4" more clearance for wider rims/tires
It is possible to bend the inner lip and keep the shape of the outer fender on the S2000. I had to do that when the lip caught the edge of the tire and got bent down. You can use a flat block of wood to brace the outer fender while you hammer or press on the inner lip.
Some STR relevant data to share:
While lapping at the local shifter kart track (Pacific Grand Prix – PGP), which is essentially a newly asphalted auto-x course, I ended up running my street tires (usually run V710’s or R888’s).
My car is fairly representative of an STR car although some mods would be illegal but few of them would make a difference in lap times. The car is built for auto-x (SM2 because of 4.4:1 final drive) and track. I was trying out a new spring set-up. I typically run about 200 lb/in higher rates in the rear and no rear bar. For this session, I ran 1000 lb/in front and 800 lb/in rear with stock ’02 bars. Car was pushy (you can see and hear the steady state understeer in the video) and had a bit of inside wheel spin. The RE070’s are my street tires and this is the first time I’ve tracked them. I was impressed. They held up well after five 10 minute track sessions, being pushed pretty hard and sliding around a lot on purpose.
Data below:
Accelerometer Based Lateral G’s (No filtering, 100 Hz sampling): Left Max: 1.65, Right Max: 1.72
GPS Based Lateral G’s (No filtering, 100 Hz sampling): Left Max: Left Max: 1.40, Right Max: 1.45
PGP lap times with other set-ups:
1:10.9XX – 225/245 V710’s on 17 X 7.5/9.0 (tires 2 years old and corded later that day), Springs 600F 800R, ’02 front bar, no rear bar
1:11.201 – 255 X 4 R888’s on 17 X 9.0/10.0, Springs 1000F 800R, ’02 front bar, no rear bar
1:13.172 – 225/255 RE070’s on 17 X 7.5/9.0 (OEM S2000 CR tires), Springs 1000F 800R, ’02 front bar, ’02 rear bar
I think running 255’s on 9.0” wheels all around, removing the rear bar, and running either 800F/1000R or 1000F&R springs would be very fast.