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Originally Posted by daverx7,Sep 26 2010, 06:23 AM
If my kooks got to or near 150, I needed to water as it would seem like the grip disappears in the middle of run. However, this happened very rarely... Like a local event that was almost hot lapping on a hot day.
Loooove my kooks!!!
-D
The Hankooks have been the most consistent tire I've driven as the temperatures go up. Even with the temps rising about 170F, they still drive with the same feel. After they cool, we find more time but I haven't isolated it to tire fall off. In the dead of Texas summer, co-driving, we usually don't spray the Kooks.
My Hankooks have 1500-2000 miles on them and easily 120 runs. They have been flipped once, but still have ample life left. Camber has always been at -1.8/-2.0 which works outer shoulders more than inner shoulders. Wear may have evened out now that I've put the Gendron bar in but that won't stop me from trying more negative camber. They are very tolerant of slip and 32psi widens the acceptable slip and 38psi- we like 35.
The Dunlops were quite slow when brand new but just as fast as Hankooks on grippy concrete, once scrubbed. I'll continue to compare the tires through their life. They require a more precise driving style because they are less forgiving- definitely a stiffer carcass. Prior testing has shown Dunlops to be pressure insensitive so we run them at 35 as well. Dunlops get hotter faster and fall off quicker, even though they also don't get too greasy when hot. We typically spray Dunlops to keep them around 120*F.
As the temperatures drop and the moisture increases, I'm sure I'll be gravitating towards the Dunlops or even Yokohamas or Bridgestones. In my testing, the heat ranges are as follows (from hotter to colder): Hankook, Dunlop, Yokohama, Bridgestone, Toyo. I've sprayed Stones on sunny 40*F days.
Somewhat anecdotal information: Hankooks ride better on the street but are much noisier than Dunlops. The Hankooks have a floaty feel to them when pressures are 29-30 on the freeway.
Originally Posted by TheNick,Sep 26 2010, 05:47 AM
We ran 2.8deg of front camber and absolutely demolished the outside edge of the tires. Temps were even across the tire but we got the cords at Nationals on the outside edge. We would typically run 38F/35R on pressures but there is a distinct wear pattern on the tires that shows an extreme lack of pressure. The middle of the tire is probably 1-2/32nds taller than the inside or outside edges.
Care to share your setup information? Something sounds odd about the wear you are seeing. If you are ruining outside edges with -2.8, we should have decimated the edges at -1.8 but we haven't. I suppose it is possible the extra camber adds a disproportionate amount of lateral grip but that has not been my experience on strut cars.
Like I said before, the most that I can think of is it has to be spring rates and sway bar size and how much it allows the car to roll.
For instance, running saner bar on 2nd hole, 650lbs springs square, and -3.5 camber I get outter tire edge wear.
I'm wondering if I stepped up to 750 or 850 springs if I would see the same thing.
How did you arrive at -3.5 deg camber? That seems excessive. When the car roles you get more camber. You would have to be running very low tire pressure to roll the outside shoulder over.
Why don't you try -2.5 up front with 40 psi in your tires and see what happens. Then adjust from there.
I have J's racing lower ball joints. In the picture below you can see that the tire rolls over onto the outer edge of the tire. If i put the bar on the 3rd hole, i exsperience coner entry push.
Originally Posted by Random1,Sep 28 2010, 07:55 AM
When the car roles you get more camber.
These cars definitely lose camber as they roll - not how you would typically see with a MacStrut car - but its because of actual body roll, not the suspension design.
