The ball bearing mounts are designed to place the bar better. It was one of the main reasons they were designed.

 

Ah thanks for the clarification.

 

No sanding was required for my upgraded mounts and bar. The extent of the sanding is a piece of sand paper to remove any course material so the tight-tolerance bearing fits over the bar stock. Again, I didn't have to do it.

I'm not sure what you are asking on the endlinks. I installed the bar with the front wheels off the ground, but didn't attach the endlinks. I put the car on a four post lift then rotated the bar into position to use the endlinks. The endlinks can be adjusted some but the bar just rotates.

 

The endlink question was related to the extra clearance needed by lowering the sway bar's mounting position. Without lowering the sway bar, the steering rack boot gets in the way before the sway bar arm can be rotated into a position where the endlinks will fit. If the sway bar is lowered to give clearance to the steering rack boot, it should have room to rotate more for endlink fitment.

The spacers from Izzy's are not in stock and would be about two weeks to get. The Gendron ball bearing mounts are in stock, drop the bar 0.650", and work on a car that's 1 3/8" lower than stock, but they're $250.

 

Buy some Electrical Grade Fiberglass (GP03). Its incredibly hard and will work perfectly fine. You can cut it with a band saw and drill holes in it like its wood. Take the stock bracket and trace it onto the material.

McMaster part #8549K49 should work fine. $30 and 30min and you should be ready to go.

 

I don't have access to a band saw or drill press, nor do I know anyone who does. The downsides of living in a highly populated area where most people live in apartments or townhouses.

I'll keep that material in mind if I find someone soon who can help.

 

I had to take off some of the powder coating to get the solid bar through the bearings. I also found that I could not get the endlinks to reach the stiffest setting. I do however have the older, non "high-angularity" endlinks.

 

We just went to a local metal shop (Metal Supermarket - might be a chain store?) and got some 1/2" thick aluminum bar. Can't recall the width, something like 1.5" or 2". I think it cost $20 or so for two cars' worth. Then drill and sand as needed and find some longer bolts.

 

I borrowed a jig saw from a friend, and another friend has a vice and a 1/2" diameter drill bit for the holes. This should be ok for aluminum. McMaster has some aluminum bars that are 5/8" and 3/4" thick by 2" wide for about $13-14 + shipping.

The stock mount (from memory of measuring it yesterday) is about a 4 1/4" x 2 1/8" rectangle with 1/2" diameter holes that are 3" apart. One hole is actually slotted as a 1/2" x 5/8" oval, so I don't know exactly where the receiving hole is on the car.

 

Pick up some cutting oil to keep the metal cool as you drill through that much aluminum.