S2000 STR prep resource
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Joined: Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by TheNick,Jan 9 2011, 10:11 AM
This is true.
Toyo's - don't shave them. Once they are close to the wear bars they are done.
Hankook's - don't shave them. Once they are close to the wear bars they are done, even though they are the same compound all the way throughout - they heat cycle out quickly. Shaving just seems to make them very "knife edgy" and the breakaway characteristics are very abrupt. The hotter these tires get, the slower they get. Keep them under 140deg.
Johnny - the OSGiken is definitely a worthwhile upgrade from a drivability standpoint - ultimately it will end up being a lot faster than OEM as drivers become more accustomed to the change. As for wheels we have the TSW Nurburgrings.
Cubby ran the 245/35's last year for a bit before he switched to Hankooks. He loved them a lot, just couldn't afford to keep replacing them every month because the car is his DD too.
Thats a good front bar size - you'll need 850-900lb front springs to keep the tires out of the fender well. Ditch the rear bar and run 850-900lb springs out back. You'll need to check the rear shock length, probably need them shortened to get adequate bump travel at STR ride heights (under 13" from center of wheel to fender). Are you getting the Moton's from Osgood? Let me know and I'll talk to him.
Of course if you were smart you'd sell the Honda and buy a 99 Miata
Toyo's - don't shave them. Once they are close to the wear bars they are done.
Hankook's - don't shave them. Once they are close to the wear bars they are done, even though they are the same compound all the way throughout - they heat cycle out quickly. Shaving just seems to make them very "knife edgy" and the breakaway characteristics are very abrupt. The hotter these tires get, the slower they get. Keep them under 140deg.
Johnny - the OSGiken is definitely a worthwhile upgrade from a drivability standpoint - ultimately it will end up being a lot faster than OEM as drivers become more accustomed to the change. As for wheels we have the TSW Nurburgrings.
Cubby ran the 245/35's last year for a bit before he switched to Hankooks. He loved them a lot, just couldn't afford to keep replacing them every month because the car is his DD too.
Thats a good front bar size - you'll need 850-900lb front springs to keep the tires out of the fender well. Ditch the rear bar and run 850-900lb springs out back. You'll need to check the rear shock length, probably need them shortened to get adequate bump travel at STR ride heights (under 13" from center of wheel to fender). Are you getting the Moton's from Osgood? Let me know and I'll talk to him.
Of course if you were smart you'd sell the Honda and buy a 99 Miata
as far as the front bar....im not really sure on the details of it. I didnt make it but its been on the car for stock class and seems to work well. However i have never tried a different one to compare.
I was already planning on ditching the rear bar.
We already have to motons....have had them for a while for stock class.
Another question...whats the most cost effective diff bushing option? I was thinking to just fill the stock units with some stiff urethane.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Frankfort, KY
Originally Posted by jrose29,Jan 10 2011, 05:39 PM
I hope to have a set of kooks and a set of 245/35 R1R's for the lincoln events in May.
as far as the front bar....im not really sure on the details of it. I didnt make it but its been on the car for stock class and seems to work well. However i have never tried a different one to compare.
I was already planning on ditching the rear bar.
We already have to motons....have had them for a while for stock class.
Another question...whats the most cost effective diff bushing option? I was thinking to just fill the stock units with some stiff urethane.
as far as the front bar....im not really sure on the details of it. I didnt make it but its been on the car for stock class and seems to work well. However i have never tried a different one to compare.
I was already planning on ditching the rear bar.
We already have to motons....have had them for a while for stock class.
Another question...whats the most cost effective diff bushing option? I was thinking to just fill the stock units with some stiff urethane.
also curious to hear how the 245/35's treats you. That would be 5.4% difference from the 255/40. It would drop the second gear top speed from 66.9 to 63.4 which would be ap2 like top speed
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Originally Posted by jrose29,Jan 10 2011, 05:39 PM
I hope to have a set of kooks and a set of 245/35 R1R's for the lincoln events in May.
as far as the front bar....im not really sure on the details of it. I didnt make it but its been on the car for stock class and seems to work well. However i have never tried a different one to compare.
I was already planning on ditching the rear bar.
We already have to motons....have had them for a while for stock class.
Another question...whats the most cost effective diff bushing option? I was thinking to just fill the stock units with some stiff urethane.
as far as the front bar....im not really sure on the details of it. I didnt make it but its been on the car for stock class and seems to work well. However i have never tried a different one to compare.
I was already planning on ditching the rear bar.
We already have to motons....have had them for a while for stock class.
Another question...whats the most cost effective diff bushing option? I was thinking to just fill the stock units with some stiff urethane.
I'd only replace with OEM.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,531
Likes: 3
From: Tucson
[QUOTE=josh7owens,Jan 10 2011, 03:48 PM] snip...
also curious to hear how the 245/35's treats you. That would be 5.4% difference from the 255/40. It would drop the second gear top speed from 66.9 to 63.4 which would be ap2 like top speed
also curious to hear how the 245/35's treats you. That would be 5.4% difference from the 255/40. It would drop the second gear top speed from 66.9 to 63.4 which would be ap2 like top speed
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From: Frankfort, KY
Originally Posted by Random1,Jan 10 2011, 11:01 PM
How do you get those 2nd gear top speeds? In my experience it's more like 63 and 58 for AP1 and AP2.
ap1(9000 rpm readline)
225/50/16 66.3
245/35/17 63.4
255/40/17 66.9
ap2 (8300 rpm redline)
225/50/16 61.2 (I know The ap2 comes with 17s but I don't know the tire size)
245/35/17 58.4
255/40/17 61.7
ap2 (8500 rpm redline)
225/50/16 62.6 (I know The ap2 comes with 17s but I don't know the tire size)
245/35/17 58.8
255/40/17 63.2
ps- with my snow tires I can do 71 in second gear.
jrose29 ignore my post. When you said "diff" bushings I thought of "different", I'm so used to text lingo that I read it without even thinking about it. Like they said I wouldn't change the diff bushing. When you heel-toe if you don't do it perfect you risk messing up the diff because it absorbs all that energy. I wouldn't risk it.
If they made kook 245/35/17's I would get a set for local events since we never top out second gear. It would give me a advantage over dave but don't tell him my secret plan!
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Near Philadelphia
Originally Posted by josh7owens,Jan 10 2011, 08:05 PM
I used the turnzero website....
For the AP2 you need to change the intermediate gear ratio from 1.16 to 1.208. Then you'll get the right numbers.
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From: Tucson
Here a video for some STR entertainment. What it really shows is that sometimes you just wish you had an AP2. The concrete sure is nice though. Temps started in the low 40s and maybe got to almost 50.
Sunday Autocross - Sierra Vista Airport
Sunday Autocross - Sierra Vista Airport
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From: Frankfort, KY
Originally Posted by IntegraR0064,Jan 10 2011, 11:57 PM
Josh-
For the AP2 you need to change the intermediate gear ratio from 1.16 to 1.208. Then you'll get the right numbers.
For the AP2 you need to change the intermediate gear ratio from 1.16 to 1.208. Then you'll get the right numbers.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,531
Likes: 3
From: Tucson
Unfortunately that web page only lets you enter the tire size as you have indicated. It assumes all tires are made the same. If you look at the specs from the TireRack page and Toyo web page they show the following for the overall diameters.
Toyo 245/35/17 -> 25.3"
Toyo 255/40/17 -> 25.2"
Star Spec 225/50/16 -> 24.9"
Star Spec 255/40/17 -> 25"
Hankook 225/50/16 -> 24.9"
Hankook 255/40/17 -> 25"
This just questions the calculations. To me they look too high on achieved speed. The Toyos would be off based on the Toyo web page data.
Toyo 245/35/17 -> 25.3"
Toyo 255/40/17 -> 25.2"
Star Spec 225/50/16 -> 24.9"
Star Spec 255/40/17 -> 25"
Hankook 225/50/16 -> 24.9"
Hankook 255/40/17 -> 25"
This just questions the calculations. To me they look too high on achieved speed. The Toyos would be off based on the Toyo web page data.