Front sway bar? If you have an adjustable sway, you could stiffen it up. Also, if the rear is loose, and you have no other options, you either suck it up, or go back to stock specs on the toe. Also, you could take out the rear sway bar.

But really, you will have to give us the rest of your setup before anyone can give you any workable ideas because at this point I am just shooting in the dark.

 

Yea toe in makes a world of difference. As did taking out the rear bar... Also how much camber do you have back there. You may have either too much or too little

 

Is anyone getting away with the hollow gendron bar?

I have 650/600 f/r spring rates and the hollow bar on full stiff and it feels like a lot of body roll. I'm considering going back to the solid bar... but that sucker is heavy.

 

I thought the hollow was stiffer? Hmm.. I don't know how that makes sense... but anyway. I have a hollow and I have very little body roll. However, I'm running 14k front and 12k rear.

 

Not the custom hollow, the regular one.

 

There's nothing wrong with body roll if the car goes fast! You'll need to provide your complete suspension/wheel/tire setup to get the best advice.

 

[QUOTE=Random1,Jun 13 2010, 09:23 PM] There's nothing wrong with body roll if the car goes fast!

 

I just completed the first round install of my Motons. Other than no real good place to locate the rear canisters, I think everything went well.

I measured the factory ride height as follows:
LF 35.9cm RF 36.0cm
LR 36.9cm RR 37.3cm

First of all, is the RR typically off by a few mm from the factory? I didn't have a chance to put the car on the scales to check balance.

Other than a thread a lot of gross mis-information, I haven't found much on rake. I lowered the car equally'ish, front and rear.

Initial Moton ride-height:
LF 35.0 cm RF 35.0cm
LR 36.5cm RR 36.4cm

Does rake affect transitional stability much on S2000s? I can fine tune a BMW with rear ride height but a Subaru I cannot. My prior experience tells me I want the rear lowered at least as much as the front, if not more.

If anybody is curious, I'm starting at 700F/550R with no rear bar. I won't have any idea what I'll have to change until the 27th.

 

When I raised my rear up I transistioned better... but I think it had more to do with suspension travel and such than rake... but I could be wrong

 

A true reference point. The scales seemed a tad bit on the heave side, but same scales, same day. Comparing weights outside of this isn't worth worrying about. Did Jadrice or any other BS guy weigh theirs? Any of the STR guys? Dr Wetzel's CR was around 2800 (OEM wheels, full exhaust, AC/Radio model).

I was on lightweight wheels (TR/Kosei) on (4) 275/40/17 A6s, Corey's Exhaust mod, and full/topped off fuel tank. My car is usually around the upper mid-high 2600 mark in B-Stock trim.

Keith, were you on 245s? If so, thats worth 12lbs Hate to see you leave BS, but will see you soon enough in STR.

BTW, I ran 1/2 tank at the Blytheville NT on day 1 by accident. It was all 2nd gear without any shifting. No fuel starve. Seems the 1st gear downshifting is a major factor in fuel starving.