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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #951  
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Originally Posted by Rodney,Jan 6 2010, 01:23 PM
or how about the guy that beat him at the last couple events?
True... Id like to see how you two do against each other when he's not on bald OEM Rubber (such as the last event)

But, Anyway id be glad to let you co-drive and event or two to see how my car does with a driver who actually knows what they are doing!
Old Jan 6, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #952  
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[QUOTE=daverx7,Jan 6 2010, 01:58 PM] Marc, who are you going to get to modify your 8.5" to fit up front?
Old Jan 6, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #953  
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Originally Posted by sirbunz,Jan 6 2010, 03:29 PM
Dave, we should do a dyno day (same dyno, same day) before and after the cars are tuned. Maybe some others can join? I'm sure this will help give some data out to the community. We can both use the same wheel/tire setup if it matters.
I have access to two Dyno Dynamics, if we all go we could get a deal. I can also get your machining done, I have a few sources from UK, they have high $$$ equipment and skilled machinists.
Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:22 AM
  #954  
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I own a MY04 and because of the leaning issue associated with air mods on an AP2, I purchased an EMU to adjust fuel trim. Apparently the EMU is not legal in this class? Is there really no other option for us falling in that category without going back to an AP1 ECU+ VAFC?
Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:01 AM
  #955  
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Just don't hook up the ignition/injector wires and you should be fine. You can only use the VTEC wires and the MAF wires.
Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:51 AM
  #956  
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Originally Posted by sirbunz,Jan 6 2010, 05:40 PM
Lastly, I never fall out of v-tec when I shift It should be somewhere above 6200rpm from 1st to 2nd when done properly...
I was thinking the same thing Marc.
Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #957  
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Originally Posted by Random1,Jan 4 2010, 11:29 PM
What is an approproximate free length for springs based on travel? Shock body/threads may dictate otherwise. Are helper springs required? How much is practical to lower the car from stock?

I am planning to start at 600 lb all the way around and initially lower about 0.75 inch front and 1 inch rear. I daily drive my car, so it will be a tough balance. I don't know what free length to get and if helper springs are needed. I have a set of Penkse 8100s that are in the process of being rebuilt/valved with 600 lb springs in mind.

Life in stock class was so simple!
bump
Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #958  
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Well if your Penske shocks are stock in length, then you cannot lower much w/o compromising suspension travel. I just installed my front Koni shocks with 8 inch 440 spring rate. At first, I set the ride hieght at 1 inch lower than stock, but that barely left any suspension travel. I usually target 1 inch suspension travel. I raised the hieght 0.5 an inch and I got about 1 inch travel.

I am running 245/40/17 tires with 17x8.5 wheels all around. The stock ride height was 25.75 inch. Now it sits at around 25.25 inch.

If you really want to run lower than 0.5 inch, then you should think about shorter dampers than stock.
Old Jan 8, 2010 | 09:13 PM
  #959  
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Originally Posted by nj1266,Jan 7 2010, 11:13 PM
Well if your Penske shocks are stock in length, then you cannot lower much w/o compromising suspension travel. I just installed my front Koni shocks with 8 inch 440 spring rate. At first, I set the ride hieght at 1 inch lower than stock, but that barely left any suspension travel. I usually target 1 inch suspension travel. I raised the hieght 0.5 an inch and I got about 1 inch travel.

I am running 245/40/17 tires with 17x8.5 wheels all around. The stock ride height was 25.75 inch. Now it sits at around 25.25 inch.

If you really want to run lower than 0.5 inch, then you should think about shorter dampers than stock.
Have you tried trimming your bumpstops to get a little bit more travel? Judging by the picture you posted in another thread,



it looks like you're running the full bumpstop. Trimming should give you some of that travel back.
Also, adding an upper perch will also help keep the spring coaxial with the shaft.

James Yom
Old Jan 8, 2010 | 10:15 PM
  #960  
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Originally Posted by sirbunz,Jan 6 2010, 04:40 PM
That is good to consider, but I do feel differently about a couple of things here...

The tracked AP2s with the same setup takes a much bigger beating due to the temperatures the motors reach. An auto-x S2000 will never see those temperatures unless something is wrong. The tracked cars also stay in the revs much longer. The amount of time the tracked cars spend in the throttle in one track day would account for many seasons of auto-x. This is according to the track guys who prep my car and the credible info found here on s2ki.

Also, I would much rather buy a autocrossed S2000 than any one that has been modified for the street, drag, track, pimped, etc. Looking at the field at Nationals, most the owners take good care of them. Again, there are many people having success with the bumped rev limiter and for many years now. That still wouldn't stop me from keeping a fresh motor around as a spare.
My worry with running the engine past 8000 isn't really a heat issue, it's more of all the excess/funky loads the engine takes. It's ok, we can agree to disagree. But in this case I'd rather default to the knowledge of Honda engineers over the internet

And when I said I wouldn't pick up an autoxcrossed S2000, that was obviously comparing with a stock S2000, not some modified one. I don't have the money or luxury of havinga spare engine lying around

[QUOTE]Lastly, I never fall out of v-tec when I shift



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