Sir, yes sir.

 

I have to agree...all parts will give power, but where? and is it useable? I'd much rather have a 220whp car with a big amount of power gained between 5-7k then a 230whp car or even a 235whp car with minimal gains from 5-7 but the big gains from 7.5 and up.

Thats my preference...230 isn't a hard goal to hit if you have money...don't worry, you'll get there.

As far as a dream N/A setup...well you said dream, and I'm leaving out the budget part of it:

Toda Spec B Cams
Toda Valve Springs/Retainers/Cam Gears
Mugen SS Exhaust
T1R 60 Testpipe
Mugen Header
52mm ITBs (sorry...but in an N/A build I think its necessary)
If no ITBs - ASM intake/J's 70mm TB/Full Race Intake manifold(if it ever comes out)
Laskey Racing P/P head and probably have them put together all the Toda stuff too
Toda 2.2 Stroker 13:1 compression
Mugen Cooling Mods
ACT PP/Toda or Comptech Flywheel
AEM EMS
550cc Injectors
High flow fuel pump (Walbro 255 or something to that degree)
J's Torque damper/ASM heatshield (drilled for damper)
Koyo Radiator
Samco Hoses
Ztec Heatshield
Cooling plate
Possibly some oil cooler

And thats probably it...with all that done 9k rpms should still be possible, cams/head should flow some good air...the exhaust while being a limiting factor, will sound nice and ooo maybe I'd gain 8-10hp going with something different, which when I'm making 250-260 n/a whp I don't care.

 

New goal: Rev to 20 bajillion rpm.

 

 

Yes...but the amount of money involved is rediculous which is why I decided against it. Instead my plan...

Supercharged:

Comptech SC/AC
9psi pulley
Supertech springs/retainers (from Laskey) possibly valves and guides as well
Highflow Fuel
660cc Injectors
AEM EMS
Mugen SS Exhaust
T1R 60 Testpipe
Header-undecided, whatever will suit midrange best with SC
J's Torque damper/ASM heatshield (drilled for damper)
ACT PP/Comptech Flywheel
Mugen Cooling Mods
Koyo Radiator
Samco Hoses
Ztec Heatshield
Cooling plate

Blue = what I've already got

The difference is, this is much less labor intensive (ie you don't pull the block apart)...its really mostly bolt ons, unless I decide to do the valves and guides. Main reason for doing the headwork is to rev the 2.0L out to atleast 9.5 which will be more like 10lbs or so. And well, with less money spent then the N/A route I should have 330-350whp.

The reason I am still like being part of this thread, is personally I'd rather have a 260 N/A whp S2000 then a 330whp S/C s2k. But the problem is that the N/A one for me is too expensive, and probably not reliable enough that I could live with it. Bolt ons are just easier. However, I'd love to see somebody actually do the build, because I'm sure they would love it.

 

As long as you have enough torque, you will keep making power the higher the RPMs. That's the problem though, if you go too high and stay even torque, you don't gain power. If you want to rev really high, you have to increase torque to increase power.

Silver, I post here because I still love the N/A aspect too. I love chanting in on a thread where someone says you can't make much power N/A. I like keeping tabs where everybody is at and stay hopeful that everyone will achieve their goals

Justin

 

Well, just stay in touch, 'cause my setup will be pretty similar to your ideal N/A. Car. My setup...

Jenvey 50mm ITB's w/ 440cc/min injectors (out for delivery)
Hondata IMG (already have)
Brian Crower stage 2 cams
Brian Crower valvetrain upgrade- substitute ti retainers w/ AP2 retainers (ti has a service life of 25k...too short)
spoon head gasket
feels 2.3l stroker kit, or Brian Crower 2.47l stroker (haven't decided, and a long was away)
Megan or Berk header (next after ITB's)
Megan TP (already have)
comptech exhaust
spoon flywheel
ricks pulleys
AEM adj. fuel pressure regulator
AEM cam gears
AEM EMS UEGO (already have)

and that's all just on the engine side. My shopping list for other stuff is a mile long. ...Basically everything that spoon makes

 

Todd at 2nrwerks upgrades AP1's that come in for valvetrain work with AP2 retainers. They are a little beefier. I can't have internal components in my car that are only good for 25k miles, that would only last me 1 year before I'd have to replace them. That's too much money to drop once a year, with too much of a headache to keep replacing.

 

Yep, I put 25k miles a year on it. I hate driving anything else. I had an 03 civic, and I'd rather put 500,000 miles on my S than spend a week driving anything else. I bought this car to drive it, and I enjoy every f'ing minute of it

Maintenance can be a bitch sometimes, but I keep up with it, and the car reward me for it

 

Haha obviously i was kidding, but revving to 10k would be pretty sweet.