S2k's can do it....

 

I agree! I've packed the front wheel before on my AS prepped car. Just like John, I have a pic to prove it as well.

 

I'll preface this by saying we kept things simple to get a feel for the chassis. That meant tire pressures and shock adjustments were kept to a minimum.

With that said, I'll be trying higher pressures next time. It makes sense that the carcass could be distorting and causing the beveling. Are the Hankooks showing evidence that they are pressure sensitive?

Without our pyro we had no idea what temps were. The tires never felt tacky, like a Yokohama or Dunlop, but they also took forever to show signs of falling off too. On our STU Subaru, we would have started spraying the tires after two runs. Arguably incomparable cars though.

Getting 50 runs out of a street tire is just silly. He is probably way beyond that. Just this weekend his tires saw 20 runs.

 

I am on my 2nd set of Hankooks on my civic, and found that they seem to be quite pressure sensitive. We set them to the regular pressure for the first run, and they were good. They were 2 psi higher after the first run, so we left them there for the second, bleeding them to the +2 psi value, and ran them for the next couple runs. On the 6th run, we dropped them back to the regular pressures, and gained a good bit of grip for the last runs.

32F 36R vs 34F 37R for a 225 on a 7.5" wheel

Seem to be the same way on my wife's s2000

 

Yea - but you aren't near full lock there, nor are you close to the shock fully extending. I don't think anyone is debating that given the right circumstances you can lift an inside front wheel with an S2k. What is at debate is that it would/could happen at full lock at full shock droop.

 

Once upon a time, I thought it might be that sleeve either moving up and down against the bushing washers, or rattling sideways against the shock shaft. I made sure that the nut was tightened to fully compress the bushing washers against the sleeve I also tried wrapping the shaft with electrical tape to take up any slop between the sleeve and the shaft. Neither attempt reduced or eliminated the rattle.

 

Any thoughts on whether the J's S1 camber kit is legal for STR? It's not part of the control arm, it's effectively part of the hub.

SCCA rules for reference:

 

I dont see where those would be any different than replacing the upper ball joint with specialty products ball joint #67220 except your paying more than $100 more. Guy Ankeny also offers upper control arm bushings that give you about -3.5 degree's of camber.

Anyone know what the advantages are or any of these? I can get the Specialty Products stuff through for $60 each which is way cheaper than either of the other options...

 

130-140 on rs-3's? thats hot hot

 

That does seem a bit warm, but the kook z214's seemed to like more heat than the v710's and a6's. Maybe Kook designs them that way.