Yes you can order that spoiler through their catalog - but that's not the CR spoiler, that's an accessory spoiler. The CR spoiler part number is 71701-S2A-A012C (for berlina black as an example).

And the trunk lids are different part numbers for the CR and non-CR. So maybe you can't use the CR spoiler. I'm assuming the "if it bolts right up in the correct way you're good" rule doesn't extend to buying a CR trunklid and spoiler together.

 

Those of you guys running Koni's, how much did you cut the stock bump stop if any? Im reusing it obviously, and believe I need to cut it down but Im unsure of how much to cut

 

Nice wing. Can you PM me the dimensions / shopping list of materials please? Might be nice to add it to a spare decklid given the infestation of tri-rotor FD RX7s running $$M in TX/AR/OK...

Thanks,
Stanford

 

Well I finished painting the wheels last night, and this is the result. I love the color, very gulf racing-esque which is kind of a theme I am going with. However, close up the paint did not really come out as good as I have done in the past. Either way I think it gives the slightly bland TR wheels some extra visual assistance.



I thought I had a line on a Saner front bar yesterday but that fell through and it looks like the gendron may be the only in stock option available. What stiffness/size option does everyone seem to like for STR?

 

Mine are cut down to less than a 1/2 inch.

 

awesome thanks! Mine should be going on soon, not that it matters because it barely gets above 30* around here it seems and the roads are all iced

 

I have the solid 1.25" bar. A local has the 1.375" hollow bar and uses it on full stiff but to "some" that might be over kill. In my opinion the hollow 1.25 would be to soft and you should opt for the solid 1.25"

A wise man told me "If your rear inside wheel is lifting in a turn add more front bar, If it's not, soften it up until it does, then go one notch stiffer" , "you want to use the front bar to stop from lifting that inside wheel and causing traction loss"

I love the slolam feel of my front bar on full stiff but if you don't set up early for the turns and really ask alot from the front tires it will "push" and "understeer". Get set up early and get that car rotated it will feel very stable and fast but it doesn't always work out right.

I'm changing my whole set up this season though. I'm going to try less bar but I don't know how its going to play out. A local T2 driver that has alot of track records in a S2k told me "you autocross guys need to get away from that stiff front bar, its doing nothing but hurting you" and I just reply with "But it feels so stable and transitions so fast". You can't really compare track racing to autocross and stiff seems to work in the autocross world.





Although, I know nothing and just a parking lot racing, JDM'ed out, ricer.

 

What are your current spring rates?

 

700f/700r when I had my shocks on last year only because that's what came with my used jrz coil overs. I'm going with 850f/700r this season with my solid bar on the front and a miata bar on the rear. I'm going to try to "like" the 4th stiffest setting because that's what my bench racing exel sheet "tells me" to run but well see how it works out.

Also
2.6 camber front with 0 toe and 2.3 camber rear with 0 toe.

Thenick and people like that are 100 times more nolegable then me about tuning and settings and such. So don't take anything I say to serious.

 

I agree. Too much bar hurts you. I would much prefer making alignment changes vs. stiffening the sway bar. It takes too much bite away from the front end. If you can't dive and hold on to the tight line in a turn, you might as well pack up and go home.

Also, wheel lift happens no matter how stiff you go. We race on bumpy lots so eventually you will get an uneven surface.

-Marc

EDIT ... Fixed a number of my errors