Ideally, I didn't want my Saner set at full stiff. It's a pain in the ass to change due to the way I added the 4th adjustment hole (tapped hole vs. clearance hole). I just didn't get it changed in time for my first auto-x in STR trim. So, I calculated that I would have nearly the same front to rear roll stiffness balance with my FSB on full stiff and my '00 rear connected as I would if I set my Saner to full soft and disconnect my rear bar. No rear bar and full soft Saner FSB was my original setup goal. The high roll stiffness setup seemed to work out OK, so I'm going to leave the rear bar on for a while and see how other events go. I had no problem putting the AP1 power down. haha

I also agree with the driver confidence comment.

 

Our setup

900F/850R
3deg front camber
Min caster
0 Toe

2.5deg rear camber
3/16" Toe in

Front bar 37.5" 1-3/16" hollow w/ 1-1/4" ends = similar to stock AP1 bar.

No rear bar - tried to like this multiple times. Did nothing but make the car skip and skid across the surface and it would never put power down well. Didn't matter if it was the stock diff or the Giken.


Giken made the car push horribly, so we took off the 1-7/16" bar, put on the smaller one, and went up 150lbs on the rear. Took us the entire season to get the car there. Best handling and most predictable RWD car I've ever driven, except for on Lincoln's surface.

The jump to the 850lb rear spring made the biggest difference, finally got the car to turn mid corner. If I had to guess, the car in late August on asphalt was .5-1sec faster than it had been all season on a 40sec course. What the hell happened in Lincoln - I have no idea...I'm pretty fed up with the tire wars and I really don't want to have to run Toyo's - but at this point I think its a requirement at Lincoln.

The car on 17x8.5's with almost crud Toyo's had 10x's more grip than the Kooks on a 17x9 with 150runs on them. We seem to be killing the Kooks about 50-100runs earlier than everyone else.

 

May I ask why you all went with min caster? I always thought the trend was to max caster? Also are you guys going to look into a softer rear bar such as the miata bar or just going to stay no rear bar?

I'm going to do 850f/700r but use a miata rear bar.

Also was the .5 lower toe in the rear to help put the power down in the straights?




Thanks,
Josh

 

Caster causing jacking effects that raise the outside corner when the wheel is turned. I don't want to have anything to do with that.

Rear bar? No. Why eff with something that works fine.


I don't understand what .5 lower toe is. And if you have problems with putting power down in a straight line then something is seriously screwed up or you are driving a Z06.

 

What exactly are you talking about here that you tried to like multiple times? It sounds like you're talking about taking off the rear bar, but that doesn't make sense.

lol

 

Using my deductive detective powers, he's asking about camber, not toe.

I'm also going to guess the answer to his question is either yes or you didn't feel like getting a camber kit for the rear or most likely both of those factors combined.

 

I meant that I've tried to put the rear bar on my car multiple times and every time it sucks. No rear bar is the only way I'll go.



The only reason why we went to 2.5deg of rear camber is tire wear. We ran 2.2 most of the season and saw that we were working the outside edge a little hard. I can't understand how anybody can make one of these cars turn with more camber than that, or why you'd want to hurt corner exit that badly by only using the inside half of the tire.

 

Just to make sure this is clear.
The outside corner of the car lowers down hence the suspension on that corner raises up in to the wheel well.

Please let me know if this is incorrect.



The .5 was in reference to camber not toe, Josh said toe but meant camber.

 

Incorrect. If you watch a macstrut car with a lot of caster - the outside front body will actually raise up when they turn the steering wheel.

 

Think about extreme caster and the axis of the knuckle.