S2000 STR prep resource
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by abenson,Feb 22 2010, 01:22 PM
I just ran my first STR event yesterday. My last car was an STS classed RSX-S which I campaigned at regional events for 3 years before moving to the S2K. Currently, I am on a 100% stock setup in an 06 S2K. The course was very short (FTD was in the 36's - a CR running B-Stock), and a lot of fun. I know the others in my group are more set up than stock but as the car is new to me I'm learning its weaknesses first hand before upgrading anything. I don’t have the actual results in front of me as they haven’t been posted yet but they were what you'd expect. I came in 5th place after 2 S2Ks and a duel driver 08-09 Miata. My time was actually decent (40.99) compared to the class leader (38.5) considering my setup and experience with this car.
The first thing I noticed about the stock S2K is the car has a tendency to push before over steering. This was easily noticed in the hairpin turn on the course I ran yesterday and explains why you all talk about the sway bar being a must.
I'm planning to pick up a used Saner bar and get a B-Stock alignment after exploring the stock configuration for few more events.
Let me know if I'm on the right path or any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks!
The first thing I noticed about the stock S2K is the car has a tendency to push before over steering. This was easily noticed in the hairpin turn on the course I ran yesterday and explains why you all talk about the sway bar being a must.
I'm planning to pick up a used Saner bar and get a B-Stock alignment after exploring the stock configuration for few more events.
Let me know if I'm on the right path or any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks!
all cars will push badly when you introduce a pivot cone that forces you to make a very tight U-turn. There is just no fast way around a pivot unless you slow waaaaay down. I can assure you that your car was turning better than ours at the pivot. Even on Rs, we couldn't go in and expect the car to turn
I thought you car looked great at the pivot. You were one of the very few that actually did ok at the pivot point. Also, I would reference the BS CR's time on the 255x4 dunlops in the second round of 37.8 as an STR time. This should give you guys in the region a good starting point.
Good luck with the car, and Jon and I will continue to provide help and support with whatever directions you take class wise.
One more thing, the car won't push as much as you think on a bigger course. You will get more oversteer than push with the stock setup.
- Jadrice
Joined: Nov 2007
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I was the driver of the red 07. I appreciate all the help I recieved during the event. My car still has the factory suspension except for a cusco front sway bar. My alignment is still factory. I was running dunlops, 225's front, 255's rear . I switched to 255's up front for the afternoon. The miata was a very well prepared car. I hope that adds some perspective. I can see where I have to do more to prepare my car. For me it's a balancing act between having a more than competent autocrosser and not ruining the ride quality of my daily driver. I'm now struggling with what to do next. Do I go with Koni's and springs, coilovers, or buy some cr shocks and springs? I wish I would have talked to you at the event but I was consumed with trying to catch the front runners.
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Originally Posted by PedalFaster,Feb 24 2010, 03:42 PM
I moved the posts about the wheels and tires for sale to the R&C For Sale subforum. Please don't post items for sale in non-sales threads. Thanks!
Joined: May 2004
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From: Tucson
[QUOTE=Random1,Feb 8 2010, 11:07 PM]Car Setup Baseline 2/7/2010
2003 AP1 - Daily Driver
255/40R17 Dunlop Star Specs shaved to 4/32
4 OEM 8.5" +65 offset wheels with center bore machined out
FSB - Comptech 2nd gen on full stiff
RSB - stock connected
QA1 10" 600# 2.5 ID springs front/rear, no take-up springs (need to get shorter springs to allow more lowering)
Penske 8100s, pistons digressive compression/linear rebound, stock top hats, Torrington bearings on lower perch
Exhaust - home made single 20 lbs
Lowered 0.5 front/rear
Front toe = 0, camber -2
Rear toe = -1/8" total, camber -3
Planned changes/tests
1. shorter springs to allow
2003 AP1 - Daily Driver
255/40R17 Dunlop Star Specs shaved to 4/32
4 OEM 8.5" +65 offset wheels with center bore machined out
FSB - Comptech 2nd gen on full stiff
RSB - stock connected
QA1 10" 600# 2.5 ID springs front/rear, no take-up springs (need to get shorter springs to allow more lowering)
Penske 8100s, pistons digressive compression/linear rebound, stock top hats, Torrington bearings on lower perch
Exhaust - home made single 20 lbs
Lowered 0.5 front/rear
Front toe = 0, camber -2
Rear toe = -1/8" total, camber -3
Planned changes/tests
1. shorter springs to allow
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,024
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I spoke with Jenny McAbee in the National office today - they spoke with the Honda rep regarding ProSolo contingency and STR - they are going to approve it for this year even though its a supplemental class. The contingency sheet on the SCCA site should be updated soon
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 787
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From: Vancouver, BC
How come you mounted your front canisters for the Penskes where you did, instead of on the rad support like most other people with canisters do? It seems like it would be (a lot more) difficult to adjust the compression with them there.
I like where you mounted your rear cansiters though, did you fab that bracket yourself?
I like where you mounted your rear cansiters though, did you fab that bracket yourself?
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 1
From: AZ
How will you all with adjustable shocks (at the top of the shaft) access your left rear shock top, during your autocross runs?
The stock rules say you can cut out an access port, and there is no reference in STR, so I assume you have to use the stock class rule.
So, do you all actually cut the trunk trim, or just pull the trim back?
The stock rules say you can cut out an access port, and there is no reference in STR, so I assume you have to use the stock class rule.
So, do you all actually cut the trunk trim, or just pull the trim back?