I was thinking relative to the chassis which is not the correct way to think about it. Looking at photos it appears that absolute (relative to pavement) camber is lost as the car rolls.

Thanks

 

Because the stiffness goes as the fourth power of the diameter, the wall thickness (or thinness) is relatively unimportant. A solid 0.75" diameter bar is 38% as stiff as a 1" hollow bar with a 0.177" wall.

 

Anyone tried asking a machine shop if they could machine down an existing sway bar to a smaller outer diameter?

 

Modifying the rear bar would be really easy if you had a long 2x4, a welder and a small piece of straight tube.


Take the stock bar off the car, mount it using the existing D-Collars and mounts to the 2x4. Cut out the center section between the mounts - you need to make sure you keep the 1" portion for the mounts or you have to make all new mounts.

Weld in your smaller center section while everything is still mounted up as to guarantee that it still lines up when you put it back on the car.


I could do it for less than $20.

 

You could also make a jig using the stock bar and make one. A blade style adj. Would be the most useful because of the adjustability.

Cutting out that center section and welding in a smaller dia. middle section would work if you knew exactly what you "needed" size wise. If I get bored over the winter I might make a jig and modify the stock one if someone does the math in what size center section we "need". It would be cool to also cut the stock ends off the bar and make it into a blade style with holes that would allow 3-4 adjustment points.

What's the science behind "needing" a smaller rear bar? I get the no rear bar idea to loose weight, tune with springs and allow the rear to have some motion so it doesn't lift the rear inside tire.

I prolly need to get out my books and start reading

 

STR wheel question...

17x9 all around are more less agreed upon as being the best size for STR...

Now, I've had my AP1 for less than a week, but the question I have is wouldn't 16" wheels give you better gearing to improve the sluggish low end acceleration?

I used RPF1s as a reference, and they do offer a 16x8 wheel (it weights like 4 tenths of a pound less than a 17x9.) but you can wedge 255 tires on 8" wide wheels...

So what is the reason no one seems to run 16s? Is it that decent street tires aren't available in a 255r16? No significant gains?

 

Somthing like this as nick described...



Please ignore my crappy drawling, I'm in class doodling and just uploaded that on photobucket and posted it here all from my iPhone. Gotta love technology!

 

Thats exactly what I'm saying Josh. Nice picture.







The reason why I haven't used a rear bar is simply because the car sucks monkey balls with it on. I've tried to like it, I really have - it just makes the car so horrendous mid corner (won't put power down) and so skittery that it just comes right back off after 2 runs.


I wouldn't mind trying a smaller bar with a blade style adjustable moment arm (which I think I have figured out how to make for about $50) just to have the option.

 

Has anyone looked at Civic rear bars? I know they have some nice ones out there including blade type. Maybe one of those would fit or could be used as a starting point.

 

Try and find a good 255/16.